Noma

Last week I was in Copenhagen and had one of the most amazing meals. At dinner, we kept gushing about the delicious food and that we were eating at the 3rd 1st best restaurant in the world. How cool is that? The 3rd 1st best restaurant in the world! And with El Bulli toying with the minds and stomachs of obsessive foodies about closing its doors or not, it might soon be the 2nd! ***2010, Noma considered the 1st best restaurant in the world.

Before I go on about the meal, let me preface by saying that I'm not a huge fan of fine dining. And a huge bill at then end does not a meal make. I hate tablecloths, feeling pressured into drinking expensive wine, and servers that list off an endless list of ingredients. Oh, and I the excessive use of hate foams.

Dinner at Noma was one of the best dining experiences I've ever had. The food tasted delicious, but at the same time was innovative and inspiring. Foods weren't morphed beyond recognition and I didn't feel like the cooks in the back had turned into scientists. There is absolutely a science to food, and this is apparent at Noma, but I've sort of missed the boat on excessive molecular gastronomy. The chefs and stagieres 

in the kitchen 

not only plate the food

but also help run the food to the table. After meeting most of the stagieres the night before - (yes, they cooked, a simple meal by Noma standards, but, of course, passed around a pastry bag filled of herb emulsion...I love eating with chefs!), and again for smørrebrød the next day (best thing about touring a city with a chef is that they know where to go to get some good grub, no tourist traps or money wasted on crap food) - I really enjoyed having them explain the food they cooked for service. Each of the stagieres, who come from all corners of the world, were so excited about the food being produced in the kitchen. There was a wine pairing, but more importantly there was a juice pairing! I don't like drinking too much alcohol so was pleasantly surprised with a new juice every few courses. They started me off with cucumber juice, followed by apple pine, carrot, seabuckthorn (my new favorite thing and more on this in a future post), celery, lingonberry, elderflower, and sorrel. At Noma there are no tablecloths, lots of wood, stone, and candles. It is understated, comfortable and elegant.

I tried to remember everything, but I know I've missed some. At Noma, Nordic ingredients take center stage, and no, that doesn't mean salmon, herring, and lingonberries are the stars of the show. Some real magic comes from Noma's test kitchen pictured here:

And what cook wouldn't be inspired if the test kitchen was on a boat!

Apologies for dark food pictures...I despise taking pictures at restaurants, and of course we know the evils of flash, but I had to document this meal. I was eating at the 3rd best restaurant in the world for goodness sakes!

So it goes a little something like this...

We started with a few snacks.

Sorrel with speck and blackberry, then this seabuckthorn and carrot leather with pickled elderflower:

Pressed chicken skin with smoked cheese, dill and lumpfish roe and crisp rye bread (this was an instant where I got too excited and gobbled up my snack, and then remembered I was trying to document my meal with pictures). Quickly forgotten when this smoked quail egg arrived, served in this custom made egg!

Some of the foods at Noma are quite whimsical and playful, like these fresh radishes served in a flower pot with edible malt soil:

I think I might consider flying back to Copenhagen just to have another serving of this herb toast with cod roe emulsion and fresh herbs dusted with vinegar powder, topped with the thinnest bit of crispy duck fat:

I had heard about this dish before I arrived and it was much anticipated. Sea urchin from Norway with frozen cream, dill granita, and cucumber balls rolled in ash:

I've never had raw chestnut, but this shaved chestnut with cod roe, walnut, and rye crumbs was one of my favorites of the night:

Everyone's eyes lit up when this was brought to the table, Norway lobster with fresh oyster emulsion and Icelandic purple seaweed powder served on a hot stone:

Onion with verjus, tapioca and thyme:

When I first sat down at the restaurant I could smell this truffle dish being served at another table and because we had no idea what we would be served I had my fingers crossed that this would be included in our meal...Salsify wrapped in milk skin with Swedish black truffle:

Seared turbot with celeriac, celery with elderberry caper sauce:

What could knock our socks off at this point? Maybe this brined root vegetable dish, each rolled by hand and doused with bone marrow:

Beef cheek cooked for 72 hours in hay with mushroom bullion, green cabbage stuffed with white cabbage compote, cauliflower leaves, rosehips, mustard seed and lingonberry.

Because Noma stresses the use of Nordic ingredients, typical desserts like something chocolatey aren't served. Instead we had this carrot sorbet topped with buttermilk foam and anise:

This walnut ice cream was quite possibly one of the most delicious ice cream flavors I have ever tasted. It came with cream, oat crumble, and blackberry powder:

Isn't this the perfect way to end the meal? A snowman made of meringue, a belly of cloudberry sorbet, and surrounded with yogurt snow:

Thought we were done? Just one more thing...Øllebrød. A traditional Danish porridge, where dark rye bread is soaked in beer. Served here cream, skyr cheese ice cream and rye crumbs.

If you are ever in Copenhagen, Noma is a must.

Comments

[msmarmitelover]

Wonderful. How much did the meal cost?

[Food Snob]

noma might maybe be the best restaurant anywhere...

[Tangled Noodle]

I don't even know where to begin . . . !

I'm seriously in awe! How wonderful to have been able to experience not only the gorgeous visual presentations and what must have been extraordinary flavors, but to also see how it's accomplished! And contrary to what one might think, the aura is only enhance by the glimpse behind the scenes. I was struck by the whimsy shown in the plating - the artistry is undeniable but it's not at all intimidating or too highbrow.

I will have to re-read and re-look at this entire post to absorb it all! What a pleasure to be able to share this bit of your Copenhagen adventure. 8-)

[catty]

WOW. everything looks DIVINE. My friends went a little while back and because she doesn't drink, she had the juice pairing instead, how CUTE is that??

Anyway, lovely write up and how cute is the snowman :D

[gastroanthropologist]

msmarmitelover - The meal cost me 1800 Danish Kroner, which is about 320 USD. This included the juice tasting. Those who got the wine pairing, instead of juice, paid a bit more at 2000 Danish Kroner. Copenhagen is an expensive town, and I would say Noma might be the best value for money.

[OysterCulture]

Noma has been on my go to list for sometime. Your meal and the descriptions look amazing. Are you going to recreate any of the dishes and post to your blog? Please, pretty please? I am so happy you got to experience this meal, for someone with your culinary training it must have been a treat to watch the experts in action.

Do you have the Noma cookbook? I cannot find it here, and would love to get my hands on a copy.

I missed by a hairs breath attending the Noma/Manressa dinner and am still kicking myself - business trip be damned. My friend still raves about the experience. Her eyes glaze over and her voice sounds like its coming from another room. Crzy.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lesleyk/sets/72157606177611329/

[gastroanthropologist]

OysterCulture - No, I don't have the Noma cookbook. I think Redzepi's first Noma book is extremely hard to find, and not sure if an English version exists. A new one is coming out, and I will find out when for sure and let you know. I did pick up a copy of Claus Meyer's new baking book though and have already tried a few recipes. The copy I got is not in English so I'm having to learn a bit of Danish!

[Darina]

Wow, what a great experience. Copenhagen is one of those places that I realy want to visit. The food looks amazing. I love how every time I look at your blog you've gone somewhere exciting.

[Lori]

That place looks gorgeous on the inside. What a great meal. I love the presentation of the quail eggs and that Øllebrød sounds so interesting. I've not heard of or had it before, but I'm intrigued. Thanks for all the beautiful photos! I never tire of the scenery in the areas you explore.

[mycookinghut]

Oh wow.. what an experience!

[Kitchen Butterfly]

I'll have to try it when next I go there - the food looks stunning. Last time I was there, my friend too me to a fab restaurant which is located on the site of an old hospital/mental institution and the brunch was great!

[Food Snob]

The first cookbook has become somewhat of a collector's item as only a limited number of copies were ever printed.
The second book, published by Phaidon, is coming out after this summer and there will not be any similar restrictions.

[gastroanthropologist]

Food Snob - Thanks for the info. Can't wait to get my hands on a copy! Love your great reviews and pics.

OysterCulture - Please see Food Snob's comment above for info about the new Noma cookbook.

[OysterCulture]

Seen, now more intrigued than ever to get my hands on a copy - ah, the thrill of the hunt =)

[gastroanthropologist]

OysterCulture - You'll have to start trolling ebay! If I come across a copy I will let you know.

[Daily Spud]

Copenhagen is one of my favourite cities and I think that a visit there plus a meal at Noma would be an utterly sublime way to spend a few days. I'll put it on my wish list!

[gastroanthropologist]

Daily Spud - I was pleasantly impressed with Copenhagen and think it deserves a repeat visit. Though I will wait for summer - heard its even more awesome then!

[Charlie Lockley]

Noma is amazing, just to let you know the first Noma cook book is in English, I am selling a copy of it on ebay (8415 charlie)in case you or any of your readers are interetes. Regards Charlie

[gastroanthropologist]

Charlie Lockley - Thanks for the info, I'm sure someone will snatch it up!

Update on the newest Noma cookbook - it will be available in the United Kingdom on Sept 30, 2010 and in the United States a few days later on Oct 6, 2010. Check this link to pre-order from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0714859036/wwwgastroanth-20