Gastroanthropology

British Spring

Yup. The picture above pretty much sums it up. Cold, wet and gloomy. But spring in Britain is more than just crap weather.

Spring in Britain means the baby lambs are in need of shepherding after a day of grazing...

Some need a little special attention...

When you live in a country where you can't expect the sun, you've just got to do what you gotta do and move on. Protect your plants with little mini-greenhouses...

And reap the rewards of the British Spring - asparagus, peas, rhubarb...

And ramsons (a.k.a. wild garlic shoots)...

Ramsons are absolutely delicious and like the sun in Britain, go as quickly as they come. They have a smooth, mellow garlic flavor and pair nicely with all the British spring populars - like asparagus and peas. Perfect for this year's Springtime Frittata.

RAMSONS, ASPARAGUS, SPRING PEA + MASCARPONE FRITTATA

• 1 Tbs butter
• 6 c loosely packed, chopped ramsons (could substitute ramps)
• 1 c fresh shelled peas
• 12 -15 tender asparagus stalks, cut into 1-inch pieces
• salt and pepper, to taste
• 6 whole eggs
• 4 egg whites
• 1/2 c mascarpone cheese

METHOD

Preheat broiler in oven to medium. Whisk eggs and egg whites together with salt and pepper, set aside. Melt butter in a large non-stick, oven-safe pan. Add ramsons and saute over medium-high heat. Once wilted, drain any excess liquid. Add peas and asparagus pieces. Cook for 1 minute and reduce heat. Make sure that everything is spread evenly about the pan. Pour egg mixture over top. Leave on low heat till the bottom and sides set. As this is happening, add small dollops of mascarpone to the eggs. Once the sides are set, place in the oven under the broiler till the top sets and browns gently. Remove from oven. Let sit for a few minutes and then remove from pan and serve. Can be refrigerated and served cold, but I prefer it warm. 

With a great, non-stick pan (my eight-year-old All Clad non-stick, which has traveled thousands of miles and lived in many countries still does the trick). You can loosen the frittata with a flexible rubber spatula and slip it out of the pan. Or you could flip it out, but I like to see the bits of mascarpone. You could also use a mild cheddar, but I wouldn't use a stronger cheese as it will over power the delicate flavors of the springtime greens. 

And, on those cold rainy spring days, sometimes you need a treat with a little zest that puts a zing in your step. Like lemon poppy seed cake...

LEMON POPPY SEED CAKE

• 6 oz unsalted butter, room temp
• 2/3 c sugar, divided equally into two parts
• 4 eggs separated
• 2/3 c yogurt (full-fat) plain or lemon flavored 
• 1 tsp vanilla extract
• 2 Tbs lemon juice
• 1 c AP flour
• 1/2 tsp salt
• 1/2 tsp baking powder
• 1 tsp baking soda
• 1/3 c poppy seeds
• zest of 3 lemons

METHOD

Zest three lemons and juice one to get 2 Tbs lemon juice. Sift together drys and add poppy seeds and lemon zest - set aside. Separate eggs and leave whites aside. Combine the yolks in a different bowl with the yogurt, vanilla extract, and lemon juice - set aside. Beat or paddle the butter with half (1/3 c) of the sugar until light and fluffy. Beat on low and alternate adding the yolk mixture and the drys mixture. Once combined, do not over beat - set aside. Clean your beaters or change to a whisk attachment on your KitchenAid (this is when having an extra bowl makes life so much easier!). Beat egg whites to medium peaks, sprinkling in the remaining sugar once the eggs get really frothy. Sacrifice some of the whipped whites into the yolk/drys mixture to lighten it. Then fold in the rest. Bake at 350F till cooked through and dark golden brown. I made 2 small rounds in paper molds (25-30min), but this will make one 9-inch cake (40-45min).

This cake must sit for a day. Once its cooled wrap it up in plastic and set aside in the fridge. Don't look at it or attempt to eat it for 24 hours. Not sure what it is but a good cake out of the oven turns into something amazing if you wait. You can have it plain or with a little bit of vanilla buttercream. I just beat room temp butter till its pale and then sprinkle powdered sugar (to taste) and a bit of vanilla bean and splash of vanilla extract. To frost - trim any dome off the top. Cut the top half off the cake. Frost the middle, put the top half back on, and frost the top and sides. 

Mudchute, A City Farm in London

Just 10 minutes from Canary Wharf (London's second financial district and home of the UK's three tallest buildings) on the Isle of Dogs, is a wonderful city farm - Mudchute Farm. On 32 acres of fertile land (nutrient-rich as it is just next to the Thames) lives 200 animals, mostly rare breeds. Mudchute Farm is also home to 70 community allotments, a farm kitchen and restaurant, horse stables, and smokehouse. Wood from the farm is used in the smokehouse where butter, geese, and cheese are often smoked.

The two most interesting animals I saw were of the avian kind. This is a beautiful, male Golden Pheasant. Originally from central China this guy was pretty happy in a large pen with multiple light brown, less-striking, female Golden Pheasants. 

As their name suggests, these are Transylvanian Naked Necks. They hail from Hungary and were introduced to the British as Churkeys because, like Turkeys, their exposed skin turns red when exposed to sunlight. Despite their appearance these birds are calm and love warm weather. They are quite popular in warmer Eastern European countries as they can withstand higher temperatures. What are they doing in London?!

Since it is a city farm these goats have to fight for their dinner with the local pigeons who have gotten tired of begging for sandwich scraps from the business-types in their blue shirts and black suits. 

This male (can you tell?) Tamworth was finishing the last of some lettuce scraps. The Tamworth is recognized as the purest British pig breed as it is a direct descendant of the European Wild Boar. 

The farm's kitchen uses as much product as possible that is produced on the farm. For meat, Mudchute practices nose to tail cooking, using the entire carcass. It's hard to ignore the importance of animal welfare when you see the animal and its habitat before you are about to eat it.

 

Mudchute Farm and Kitchen hosted an important event yesterday afternoon - London Food Link's bi-annual networking meeting. London Food Link is a group I have been working with since last October and is a group that aims to make London's food system more sustainable. The networking event is a chance for members to share and coordinate their projects. 

One of their newest projects is Capital Growth. Funded by the London Development Agency, Capital Growth aims to create 2,012 new community food growing spaces in London by 2012. Capital Growth provides grant money and food growing advice to people in the community who start new growing spaces.

Another project is Good Food Training, which I have been directly involved with. This project aims to encourage sustainable procurement and training for the public sector (schools, hospitals, prisons). The project hosts events all over London that show public sector chefs how to use less popular cuts of meat and sustainable fish sources. The project also trains service providers about sustainability, customer service, and nutrition. One of the latest projects includes teaching prisoners how to garden and cook - skills that they can use when reintroduced to society.

Another project that I have been involved with is the Good Food for Camden strategy. This strategy aims to help lower income and disadvantaged people living in Camden (a London borough). Specifically, the Camden strategy includes consultations and toolkits so the people of Camden can learn sustainable ways to buy, eat, and dispose of food that improves their health, well-being and the environment.

There are so many other great projects that are involved in London Food Link that I haven't mentioned. These include everything city beekeeping to reclaiming food. 

If you are in London I would recommend a visit to Mudchute and to have a meal at the farm kitchen. Last night I had a bit of lemon-gingerade, crudite, and hearty bread with nettle spread. Nearly all of the ingredients were grown on the farm or on one of the community allotments. The nettles were foraged from the farm. 

This sheep's wool will be used as insulation in some of the farm buildings...

Rhubarb + Almond Cream Crostata and the Almond Debate Continues

This past week I've been swimming in almond statistics. California now produces about 80 percent of all commercial almonds. Because California is such a huge producer, they often determine the world price. Almonds are California's largest export in dollars and the US's largest specialty crop export. As almonds aren't immediately perishable (properly stored almonds have about a 2-year shelf life) California can hold or flood the market with almonds to adjust pricing. Production efficiency is the highest in California, gaining every year, and actually quite stable. Spain is the world's second largest producer, but production efficiency is so low its almost not worth the effort anymore. Almond orchards are planted with different varieties for cross-pollination.

Currently, there is a huge ongoing debate about pasteurization of almonds. Almonds are harvested raw and until 2007 were sold as such. Mandatory pasteurization or sanitation (even for organic almonds) is now law and mandated by the USDA. Almonds can be pasteurized one of two ways: steam treatment or fumigation. Steaming is quite expensive so many are forced to "fumigate". A toxic gas, propylene oxide, is used. This was all in an effort to prevent the spread of salmonella. In the case of almonds there have only been two recorded cases of salmonella and neither was from an organic almond producer. Almond producers have been waging a court battle and their case was thrown out by a federal judge on technical grounds last month. To learn more about the raw almond debate and current legal battle, check out the Cornucopia Institute's website. Almonds not from California are not subject to this treatment, which of course has the potential to put California at a disadvantage. If you buy from a farmer direct it can be sold to you untreated.

Back to Rhubarb + Almond Cream Crostata. I really wanted to make a crostata with my almond cream and apricots came to mind. There is no way I'm going to get my hands on an apricot this time of year in London. Since rhubarb is in full swing and gorgeous in color I decided to give it a try. Crostatas are simple and rustic - my favorite kind of dessert.

First, I cut and poached 10 long rhubarb stalks in a shallow pan with a simple syrup of 1 cup sugar to 2 cups water. I added vanilla bean and a few cardamom pods. Rhubarb should be poached in simmering water and not too long as it will fall apart and turn to mush. For crostata about 10 minutes should do it. I made single-serving crostatas so I cut the rhubarb quite small, about 1/2 inch pieces. Drain rhubarb and reserve liquid. This should be enough rhubarb for 18 individual crostatas. 

Roll out cubes (1 1/2 inch on a side) of your favorite pie dough to 1/8 of an inch thick. Check Martha if you don't have one. There are also some great store bought doughs - just check the label and make sure it uses natural ingredients. Spread a layer of almond cream (recipe to follow) and then add rhubarb on top, taking care not to layer fruit on fruit. Fold the edges and crimp. Sprinkle with sugar.

Make sure your oven is preheated to 400 F/ 200 C. Then, reduce the heat to 375 F/ 190 C just as you put your crostatas in the oven. Give them enough room - they spread a bit. Six should fit comfortably on a standard sheet pan. Bake for about 40 minutes, or until the crust is a deep golden brown. While crostatas are in the oven, take your reserved rhubarb poaching liquid and simmer to reduce by at least one half. This is great to brush overtop the crostadas when they are done or to add to sparkling water with ice and lime (and maybe a splash of vodka) for a delicious rhubarb spritzer.   

ALMOND CREAM

• 80 g butter, melted
• 2 tsp vanilla extract 
• 125 g 10X, or powdered sugar 
• 150 g almond flour  
• 15 g cake flour 
• 330 - 350 g pastry cream (if you follow the pastry cream recipe below you should have about this amount. If you end up with more than 350 g of finished pastry cream do not use it all) 

METHOD

Melt butter. Add vanilla extract. Add powdered sugar, almond and cake flours. Mix together with a whisk. Mix in pastry cream. Cover directly with plastic and refrigerate for 4 hours but not exceeding 24 hours. This recipe is double what you need for the Rhubarb + Almond Cream Crostada. Either double your rhubarb and pie dough or this almond cream is great baked in between puff dough and apples. I also bake this in silicone molds with bits of fresh fruit - it can stick - so grease molds liberally! 

PASTRY CREAM - In three easy steps

• 290 g whole milk
• 30 g sugar 
• 1/2 vanilla bean scraped 

Heat the above to a simmer.

• 20 g cornstarch
• 30 g sugar 
• 1 yolk 
• 1 egg 

Mix together, just before milk is coming to a simmer. Temper heating milk and the above egg mixture. Continue to whisk over low heat until it gets thick. 

•  30 g butter

Remove thickened pastry cream from the heat and whisk in small chunks of butter. When combined put in a bowl and cover directly with plastic. Refrigerate for about 4 hours and it is ready to use for almond cream. 

The California Artichoke

It's funny what you miss when you move to another country. Peanut butter for one. Preferably the giant Costco-sized creamy Skippy. And before I left for Europe I was into that natural, chunky peanut butter. I wasn't even one of those kids who ate PB&J every day, but since moving to Europe I want peanut butter and peanut butter flavored snacks all the time. Go figure.

Another thing I miss is artichokes. Yes, like peanut butter you can get artichokes in London. But for whatever reason its not the same as eating them from the source. Springtime in Northern California is synonymous with one of my favorite things to eat: The Artichoke.

Nearly all artichokes consumed in the United States come from Monterey County. A coastal county, with sandy soil in a temperate climate - absolutely perfect for artichoke cultivation. Today, you can still get a giant, fresh, artichoke for only $1! This is a farm near my parents home and these artichokes are ready to be picked!

I'll eat them in almost any form, but steamed or boiled whole is my favorite. Rinse. Trim. Boil water. Add a bit of salt and lemon to the water. Takes about a half hour for a few large artichokes. Done and dusted. It can't get any simpler. (Please excuse my artichokes for oxidizing - they traveled in my suitcase to London all the way from California. I just had to bring some back with me.) 

I love pulling the leaves off one by one and scraping each leaf against my teeth. Plain is fine or dipped in a bit of melted butter or lemon mayo. After layers and layers you get to the inedible choke. 

Gently scrape away and then the best part: The Heart. 

Like many of California's specialty crops, artichokes were introduced by the Spaniards over 200 years ago. Today, California mostly cultivates Green Globes, which hail from Italy, and larger than most varieties. Artichokes have been popular in Italy, Spain, and France since before the Renaissance and often eaten grilled, raw, marinated, steamed, braised, stuffed... 

I may need to take a trip get more artichokes from another source. That's the wonder of living in London. France is a hop. Spain a skip. Italy a jump. 

  

Love Apple Farm + Tomatoes

I find that tomatoes are one of the best vegetables to plant in a home garden. They are relatively easy to grow and have so many uses. At our home garden in the South Bay of the San Francisco area the tomatoes grow like weeds and all summer long they produce. First, we start by eating them fresh, just plain like an apple. Then, we chop them up and add them to salads, sandwiches, and quick pasta sauces. After a few months of tomatoes they still seem to keep coming, so they get burred up as an addition to homemade fruit + veg juices. Lastly, they are chopped and frozen, canned, or made into tomato sauce. There are always so many, but never too many. I'm not sure I can say the same for the zucchini that seems to grow in overabundance as well...

At my recent visit to Love Apple Farm I was totally wowed by the selection of baby tomato plants for sale. I wanted to buy one of each, but there seemed to be nearly a hundred varieties. 

It can get cool in the Santa Cruz mountains so these little plants are protected by the greenhouse.

Cynthia Sandberg, owner of Love Apple Farm, is famous for her delicious tomatoes and her growing methods are no secret! 

You can check this link for more detailed tomato growing instructions, but here is an illustrated version...

So I bet your wondering what I picked... I got some of my favorite Brandywines and some that were new to me. I got a Gary O'Sena tomato, which is a cross between a Cherokee Purple and Brandywine. It will grow to be a round, black tomato. I know bigger isn't always better, but I found a Chyornyi Tarasenko that I had to have. It hails from Belarus and is rumored to be one of the biggest tomatoes around. I also found a Boar's Hoof tomato plant, a rare find and will be a deep brown tomato. Lastly, the one I'm most looking forward too - German Red Strawberry. I was told it would grow to be baseball size and look like a giant oxheart strawberry. Say goodbye to those tasteless, boring, red tomatoes your find at the grocers all year long! 

My mother will be tending to these for the next few months. I probably won't get to enjoy these off the vine as I will be returning to London later this week and don't have plans to return till after the summer. But, that's the great thing about tomatoes... they can be canned, frozen, or sauced... and I know I'll be enjoying them in some form.