Springtime is all about inspiration in the kitchen. There are so many fresh ingredients in vibrant colors that you want to cook and eat everything. I was hoping to post this yesterday, but have been faced with an extreme case of writer's block. The weather is too nice to stay inside so I'm hoping to get this post out soon and close the laptop to enjoy the entire weekend of much needed sun till Monday rears its ugly head. While the ideas are struggling from pen to paper, I'm certainly not facing any pastry block. I've been furiously trying to catch up with all the dogeared recipes before the lovely produce disappears while I'm summering at the beach. Before you know it the berries and stone fruits will dry up, and root veggies return.
Unlike the aforementioned ugly step child, root veggie, nature's bounty in spring requires little to no cooking. I remember one of the best desserts I ever had was at Chez Panisse - just a simple bowl of cherries, still warm from the sun.
What could you possibly do to these strawberries to make them any better than they already are?
Well, the kitchen is my domain. It's where I get to exert all my power and my minions, strawberries in this case, have no choice but to give in to my commands. I usually don't bake with strawberries. I might toss a few in a scone, but usually they get a quick rinse and eaten fresh. One exception is my sun-riped strawberry jam (my first post!). Basically, you trim the strawberries, toss in the sugar, add a split vanilla bean, wrap in plastic and leave out in the sun to stew. Then you heat it up on the stove and jam as usual. It's absolutely the most intense strawberry jam ever. So, I realized that manipulating the strawberry might lead to something equally as good as the original thing. Inspired by my 20-hour apples, I decided to give slow-roasted strawberries a go.
These get trimmed and tossed in light brown sugar. Put a little bit of melted butter in the bottom of a non-metal, oven-safe pan. Cut 1/2 vanilla bean and scrape the pulp out and mix in with the butter. Place the strawberries trimmed side down, giving each one space. Place in a 200F oven for about 3 hours...a little more if they are large, but leave them whole. Try to pick small strawberries - I used about 4 dozen. I cut one of my large strawberries in half and much preferred the whole roasted strawberries.
The strawberries shrivel and slump into what looks like a hershey kiss. Once they are cool enough to handle, gently remove them and set aside. Pour the roasted strawberry juices in a small saucepan and add an equal amount of Sauternes, or another sweet white wine. Reduce liquid by half, whisking occasionally. The leftover butter from the pan creates a richness and the final sauce is like liquid strawberry candy. Drizzle over the strawberries. Eat plain or with ice cream.
This got me thinking about roasting fruits I traditionally eat fresh. I came across a recipe in the Big Sur Bakery Cookbook for roasted cherries served with a hazelnut flan. Since its a few weeks till cherry season is in full-swing I thought the hazelnut flan could use some slow-roasted strawberries. Remember flan should be made the day before serving.
HAZELNUT FLAN ***adapted from Big Sur Bakery Cookbook
For the Caramel Layer -
- 3/4 c sugar
- 1 1/2 c hazelnuts - (this is 1/2 c more than the original recipe)
- 2 c whole milk
- 2 c heavy cream
- 3/4 c sugar (scant)
- 1/2 tsp salt
- 3 whole eggs
- 5 egg yolks
To make the caramel for coating the bottom of the ramekins (8 - 6oz ramekins). You could also use french glass yogurt cups, which require no un-molding later! Melt the sugar with 1/4 cup water over high heat and let cook until sugar caramelizes to a deep amber color, about 7 minutes. Do not stir or walk away! Once the desired color is reached, turn off the heat and swirl the liquid sugar. Pour evenly amongst your ramekins and set aside until it hardens.
Toast the hazelnuts until gently golden, about 10 min in a 350F oven. Let cool and then roughly chop. Reduce oven to 300F.
Bring chopped hazelnuts, milk, cream, half of the sugar and salt to a scald. Cover and let mixture steep for half an hour. Reheat the mixture and whisk eggs, egg yolks, and remaining sugar together (do not whisk eggs with the sugar ahead of time - this will "cook" the eggs). Temper the eggs with the heated mixture, and thicken the entire mixture over a very low heat, constantly stirring, until it coats the back of the spoon. Strain through a fine sieve and pour evenly among the ramekins.
Place in a deep roasting pan and fill with warm water to reach halfway up the sides. Cover the pan with aluminum foil and carefully transfer to oven. Bake for 30 minutes, and then uncover and bake for another 10 to 15 minutes till the custard is set. It should giggle ever so slightly when the pan is tapped.
Once you can handle the ramekins, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. When ready to serve, gently run a knife along the edge and un-mold onto the dish you'd like to serve it on. Serve with roasted strawberries.




My grandmother used to make the best flan. It was coconut flan, but I loved it so much. Flan has been one of my favorite desserts for as long as I can remember. As i got older, I loved trying out flavor variations. This hazlenut flan sounds awesome -- and along with the roasted strawberries, superb.
I'm going to have to make this for my friends that will be visiting in a couple weeks!
Posted by: lisa | Friday, May 21, 2010 at 04:53 PM
Oh my, love the slow roasted, sun kissed idea for these strawberries. I am going to have to try that soon. I just made a bit batch of strawberry jam, but I ask you can you have too much? This flan sounds just perfect for summer and I'll be adding it to my ever growing list of desserts from you. I love hazelnuts and can see where this is about perfect.
Posted by: OysterCulture | Saturday, May 22, 2010 at 09:25 PM
lisa - coconut flan sounds delicious. I'll have to try that next time and maybe with some roasted pineapple...
OysterCulture - Don't think you can ever have too much strawberry jam!
Posted by: gastroanthropologist | Monday, May 24, 2010 at 10:42 AM
This time of year is always a struggle in the kitchen. Like you, I just want to eat all those strawberries fresh and usually do. Spicing them up like this does sound delicious though.
Flan is one thing that I absolutely love, but have never made at home. I hear it is a bit tricky, but I'll never know until I give it a go. The hazelnut sound especially good.
Posted by: Lori | Tuesday, May 25, 2010 at 04:05 PM
That entire pan of strawberries would be gone in seconds!
Posted by: The Duo Dishes | Wednesday, May 26, 2010 at 04:45 PM
The Duo Dishes - They almost were! I had to keep reminding myself to save some for posting pics!
Posted by: gastroanthropologist | Wednesday, May 26, 2010 at 05:12 PM
This looks unbelievably delicious.
Enough said.
Posted by: Brenda - Aesthetic Dalliances | Wednesday, May 26, 2010 at 08:53 PM
Wow! I rarely cook strawberries as I so prefer them whole and fresh, but this way of cooking them sounds stunning! And served with this flan is heaven; I can just taste it. Wonderful summer dessert!
Posted by: Jamie | Friday, May 28, 2010 at 01:10 PM
My first strawberry creation of the season was strawberries with hazelnut shortbread - the idea was great though my shortbreads didn't quite work out as I had planned, so it didn't make the blog. Your combination of strawberries and hazelnuts, however, sounds divine. I am absolutely going to have to try those slow roasted strawberries!
Posted by: Daily Spud | Sunday, May 30, 2010 at 07:21 PM
Aoife (DailySpud) talks about and makes this recipe. She did say that the inspiration came from this site.I bought the strawberries yesterday and I will be making these lovely strawberries today. I cannot wait. Do you know one of these recipes that 'haunt' you in a good way?
Posted by: valentina | Sunday, June 13, 2010 at 12:04 PM
Valentina - Let me know how you like them. Slow roasting fruit is becoming a common theme in my kitchen. I just love the way it transforms the fruit.
Posted by: gastroanthropologist | Sunday, June 13, 2010 at 12:32 PM
I have not made the flan yet, but I just roasted some strawberries, and oh my goodness they were such a hit. I worked from home that day, and the aroma coming from the kitchen just about did me in!
Posted by: OysterCulture | Monday, June 21, 2010 at 01:52 AM
I couldn't find your email address in my inbox so came by here. I am going to make some strawberry ice cream today and I will add some of these strawberries to it. this has become such a favourite.I read about the wonderful tomatoes in Greece. I remember last year driving around and the beautiful smell of fresh thyme in the air. The lovely greek salads which is so simple and relies just on the freshness of the ingredients.
Posted by: valentina | Saturday, July 31, 2010 at 09:44 PM