Gastroanthropology

Mykonos

Last night we had dinner outside and there was a definite chill in the air. As we finished it started to rain. Oh dear, its seems as if the sun is setting on summer. A few weeks ago, in anticipation of the inevitable end of summer, we went to one of our favorite Greek Isles - Mykonos. It's super easy to get to - a short, direct flight from London.

Mykonos style is to sleep away the morning and have a light breakfast around noon. Then it's off to the beach to sun yourself all afternoon long, till at least six in the evening. When the heat gets to be too much to bare, cooling yourself off in the clear Mediterranean waters is the best option. 

Lunch is served sometime in the afternoon, whenever you can peel yourself off the beach. It consists of delicious grilled seafood and fresh salads.

The traditional Greek is always welcome - juicy, fragrant tomatoes, sliced peppers and red onion, cucumber, capers and olives, real Greek feta sprinkled with local, dried herbs, and grilled pita...

We can't get enough of grilled squid, served with local grilled vegetables...

Or, grilled octopus, served here with chickpea mash...

Once the belly is full, it's time to head back to the beach to catch the last few hours of sun. Then head west to catch one of Mykonos' many beautiful sunsets...

The best way to travel the island is by scooter. The island is just a few kilometers across and a small scooter ensures that you can get to some beaches not accessible by car. Do not rely on the buses - they rarely come, if at all. These amazing votive chapels with bright red or blue domed roofs pepper the island.

When you've had enough of the beach, it's time to head to Mykonos town. Check out the windmills...

The buildings in Mykonos are stone and whitewashed to keep cool and square with flat roofs to protect them from the gusty winds. Mykonos Town does not go the bed until very, very late. Dinner is eaten well past ten, shops are open all evening long, and I've never made it to closing time for any of the clubs.

When my suntanned skin sloughs off into paler, paler shades this fall I just might have to recreate some grilled seafood and Greek salad to remind me of summer.  

Bottarga - Dried Mullet Roe

A few weeks ago we spent sometime in Sardinia, boating around the Golfo di Orosei. There are no roads in this area that lead to the water so boating and hiking are your only options. You can hike down for a swim, but the view from the sea is really the best way to admire the limestone cliffs that seem to spill into the aqua marine water.

You can anchor your boat a few hundred yards away from the coast and snorkel around...eyeing your dinner.

Afternoons were spent exploring the coast, sunning and swimming. Evenings were spent gorging on Sardinian seafood. Grilled cuttlefish tossed with lots of garlic, olive oil, summer tomatoes, and parsley. A healthy squeeze of lemon and it tastes so good you grab the last cuttlefish without any thought or guilt for not offering it to your dinner date.

Octopus ceviche...another favorite... 

Of course, you don't need to be in Sardinia to enjoy these wonderful delights. There is, however, something quite Sardinian that you absolutely can't leave the island without trying - Bottarga. Bottarga is the salted, pressed, sunbaked, dried roe sack of mullet or tuna. Bottarga has been made from ancient times and is found all along the Mediterranean from France to Greece to Africa. The best comes from the Sardinian town of Cabras, on the Western coast. This is because bluefin tuna in the Mediterranean spawn in areas around the Western coast of Sardinia, and have since recorded history. I have a thing about eating bluefin tuna, because it has been nearly fished to extinction, so I go for mullet bottarga. The sacs tend to be smaller, but quality-wise considered very much on par. After the sac has been dried, it is dipped in a thin layer of beeswax which with a little effort peels off easily. 

Bottarga isn't the most appealing thing to look at, but is delicious sliced thin over hot pasta tossed in olive oil, or on lemon juice and olive oil soaked bruschetta. A truffle slicer is perfect to shave little bits of bottarga over salad. A sharp cheese slicer or vegetable peeler will also do. Once sliced it takes on a burnt orange color with flecks of what looks like gold. The bottarga from this area is actually called 'Cabras Gold'. Bottarga prices are quite steep, but just the teeniest of amounts have the most intense flavor.

This is a simple way to recreate a little bit of Sardinia, wherever you may be. Start by bringing a pot of water to a boil (I don't salt the water because bottarga is salty). Meanwhile in a large fry pan heat up really good olive oil on low heat. As the olive oil gets warm sprinkle in finely minced garlic and lemon zest. Drop fresh pasta into the boiling water - this is one of those times where having fresh pasta is important. Within two or three minutes your fresh pasta should be ready. Drain and immediately add to the heated olive oil with garlic and lemon zest. Toss together with chopped flat leaf parsley. Squeeze a bit of fresh lemon and add grated bottarga. Eat immediately. 

 

Today bottarga is exported all over the world so it is possible to get it outside of Sardinia. A good Italian deli should have access to bottarga - they may not have in the shop but will likely be able to order it for you. At Christmas time they are more likely to have it in house. If you are in London, Lina Stores in Soho, carry bottarga year round. Just around the corner at I. Camisa&Son, the pre-shaved, jarred bottarga is readily available, with real bottarga sold at Christmas. My suggestion would be to head to I. Camisa&Son for their huge selection of delicious, homemade fresh pasta and then to Lina Stores for bottarga. 

Lina Stores, 18 Brewer St., London W1F 0SH

I. Camisa&Son, 61 Old Compton St., London W1D 6HS

Apple Strudel

Since Europe takes a four day break for Easter, we decided to take one too. To Austria we went, for some end-of-season skiing and to explore Salzburg and Tirol. There was quite a bit of driving involved as well, where I once again realized the monster I had created. Nate has always been an adventurous person, and that translates into the foods he will eat. He'll try the stinkiest fish or the scary looking chicken's feet. As a self-professed foodie, having a partner who isn't squeamish about food is like having a golden ticket. But, since he's been eating with me he's learned terms like mouthfeel, balance and presentation as well. Fruits and vegetables must be fresh and crisp. Sauces and pastry fillings must be smooth and strained. Combinations of textures are noticed. He's the first point out that the chef used a bit too much gelatin in the panna cotta or that the chocolate mousse a little grainy meaning the chocolate wasn't properly melted or the eggs weren't strained. 

Because we were confronted with apple strudel every time we stopped anywhere in Austria - every restaurant, coffee shop, street vendor, and ski chalet had it - it was often the topic of conversation. In my previous post I mentioned we differed on whether or not raisins should be included in an apple strudel. Traditionally, it seems to be. And Nate likes them and thought they should be included. What does he know? The only time I ever tolerated raisins was when they were stuck to peanut butter slathered on celery. Not in my oatmeal or cereal. Not in my bread pudding. Not even in my oatmeal-raisin cookie. And, Not in my strudel.

We did agree that we don't like our strudel super-sweet. The tartness of the apple must be noticed. Even a tart apple has an immense amount of sweetness, especially when cooked, so not too much sugar is included in my recipe. I also went with these tart Bramley baking apples. 

We also agreed that a strudel must be apple-y, lots and lots of apples with just enough dough to keep it all together. 

Keeping all this in mind I decided to use Edouard Nignon/Pierre Herme's 20-hour apple method for part of the filling. I figure they know a thing or two about apples in desserts and Nignon was the chef to the Emperor of Austria way back when. In a nutshell, 20-hour apples are peeled, cored and sliced thin, pressed into a buttered pan, brushed with butter, sprinkled with sugar, wrapped in plastic, then in foil, weighted down and baked at a very low temperature for 10 hours. Then its left to cool in its own juices for another 10 hours. The result is an intense apple flavor that melts in your mouth. Start these the morning before you want to bake your strudel and let it cool overnight.

While this method provides an unbeatable apple flavor, I didn't want the final strudel to be just intense apple mush inside. So, to the 20-hour apples I added freshly diced apple. The freshly diced apples are tossed with toasted (in butter) breadcrumbs which help to absorb the liquid of the apple.

Here the fresh apple mix is piled on top of the gently laid 20-hour apples.

For the dough...strudel dough is like fresh pasta to me. It's not as hard as it seems, but worth the effort. Though with strudel dough it does help to have a lot of kitchen space - especially an island or a large dining room table. Of course, like pasta, the boxed kind is acceptable. You can buy strudel dough, but its often easier to find phyllo dough. For more on strudel dough and a good recipe check out the Daring Bakers who did strudel last May.

APPLE STRUDEL

• 1 full 20-hour apple** recipe using 4 pounds of tart baking apples
• 1 pound of tart baking apples, peeled, cored and medium diced
• 1/3 cup sugar (add more if you like things a bit sweeter)
• 1 cup toasted breadcrumbs
• pinch cinnamon
• Strudel dough

** General method for 20-hour apples within the post above, more detailed recipe to come soon. The original post provided a link to 20-hour apples but the link is no longer valid. Sorry, but I will get the detailed recipe posted shortly!

METHOD

The day before you want to bake your strudel make the 20-hour apples. On strudel day, start by making the strudel dough. Then make fresh apple filling by toasting 1 cup breadcrumbs in a shallow pan with about 1 Tbs melted butter. Use homemade or good quality breadcrumbs. Please don't use the breadcrumbs that come in those Pringles-type cans. I reserved a few tablespoons to sprinkle on my strudel dough as I rolled it up. Toss cooled breadcrumbs with the freshly diced apples, sugar, and cinnamon.

Gently lay the 20-hour apples along the entire length of one side of your strudel dough. Add the freshly diced apple mixture on top. Gently roll the strudel, sprinkling reserved breadcrumbs. Place on a sheet pan lined with foil and parchment. Brush with butter. Bake for about 1 hour or until golden brown at 375F. 

Let cool to slightly warm or room temperature. Dust with powdered sugar before serving. Serve with fresh cream or whipped cream if you'd like.  

It was just perfect. The combination of the 20-hour almost apple jam and the slight crunch of the fresh apple created the perfect filling. Now the apple strudel discussion has ended...on to the next debate...

Marrakech + Flatbread

Moroccan food was something I discovered later in life. When I was working in a restaurant, which notoriously served super rich and super seasoned food - you'd be shocked at how much butter, cream, salt and egg yolks we went through - I got very excited when one of our chefs of Moroccan heritage would cook staff meal. The absence of butter laden sauces and presence of spices for flavor cleansed the palate and refreshed the stomach. Having heard the rumors of the amazing spice souks (markets) I had to go to Morocco.

Constrained by time we chose to spend a full day in Marrakech and a few days in the High Atlas Mountains. In Marrakech we lost ourselves in the never-ending maze of souks. Bright sunny skies and color was everywhere - in the clothes, foods, spices, and rugs.

When I say, "lost ourselves", I'm not joking. At the end of the day we walked ourselves back to our riad (house), only to find ourselves back at the main square we had left over a half hour ago! Marrakech was an intense experience to say the least, and we welcomed our escape to the High Atlas Mountains. But, not before enjoying a hot, delicious, chicken and preserved lemon tagine.

We considered renting a car to drive ourselves to the High Atlas Mountains, but in the end decided not too. After getting lost on foot so many times it was absolutely the right choice.

In the High Atlas Mountains we chose to stay at the Kasbah du Toubkal. It's a great place to stay if you enjoy hiking. The hotel is run by local Berbers, born and raised in the neighboring villages. They will show you the best hikes or take you by donkey. In the evening you can book some time in a private hamman and then enjoy a delicious Moroccan feast. With dinner, which will most certainly be tagine, a delicious flatbread is served. Its cooked outside in the Kasbah courtyard the traditional way - over a fire.

Back in London, where a fire won't burn outside, on account of the sleet and general all-the-time wetness in the air, I've been making flatbread in a pan, on the stove. A grill pan would work just as well. Flatbread is super simple to make and goes well with tagine to help sop up the juices. In Marrakech, we had flatbread with chilled onions and eggplant that had been previously chopped up and melted in a pan with olive oil. Any Moroccan dip would go great with homemade flatbread.

FLATBREAD

• 315 g all-purpose flour
• 6 g active dry yeast
• 6 g salt
• 2 Tbs olive oil
• 1/2 c to 3/4 c warm water

METHOD

Combine flour, yeast, and salt in a bowl. Stir the drys together to mix. Add olive oil and 1/2 c of the warm water. Use your hands and begin to work the dough. If its too dry, add a bit more water. The dough should be sticky at first. Once you knead the dough it should come together into an elastic, glossy dough. Cut into pieces and roll out into desired size - should be about 1/4 inch thick. Lightly brush a pan with olive oil and cook flatbread. The pan needs to be about medium to high heat. Monitor the heat - if the flatbread is on too long you will get more cracker-like flatbread, and a pan that is too hot might make a doughy flatbread - cooked on the outside, but not in the middle. Serve warm with tagine or any Moroccan inspired dip.

Another Moroccan favorite is cous cous. In Morocco, it is often served with roasted vegetables, chicken, or lamb.

Cous cous is quite simple to make and most suggest you just rehydrate with warm water or stock. To make cous cous in a more traditional way, place the dry cous cous in fine mesh container and have it steam over hot, gently boiling chicken stock (vegetable stock is fine too). Fluff, and repeat.

 

My Three Travel Secrets, Part 2

The following post is Part 2 of My Three Travel Secrets.

When you travel you often learn a lot about different cultures and different people. But I've realized that with all this traveling, I'm learning a lot more about myself. I've learned how I handle stressful situations and things that will happen beyond my control, such as canceled flights or lost reservations. I've also learned that I really, really prefer the path less traveled, outdoor expanses, and find the hustle and bustle of cities unpleasant.

If you too prefer something a bit more remote, then you will enjoy my second travel secret.

My second secret: Jotunheimen National Park in Norway (Home of the Giants)

The Jotunheimen, in Southern Norway, are home to the tallest peaks in the country. Filled with glaciers, lakes, waterfalls, and jagged mountains its a haven for rock climbers and mountain hikers. I would of course recommend going in the summer when Norway is blessed with sunshine most of the day and enough snow has melted that everything is green, flowing, and not bitter cold.

It's easy to stumble upon glaciers...

and waterfalls...

and small Norwegian villages nestled among the many lakes...

If visiting the national park, stay at Turtagrø -

The perfect place for an evening of rest after hiking, climbing, or cross-country skiing. The lounge downstairs is full of large couches, books, maps, and a fireplace. Dinner at the Turtagrø was an amazing spread of mountain trout, a thick meaty stew, and roasted root vegetables, all served community style with the other guests. Jotunheimen National Park is close to some of the western fjords in Norway. The Turtagrø has quite a history and is about 300km from Bergen, and 400km from Oslo.

And finally, my third travel secret: Assume everything will go wrong. Assume you will lose your passport. Assume you might need emergency surgery that will end up costing you $35,000. I haven't lost my passport yet (knocked on wood), but I did need emergency surgery in Switzerland. As a foreigner they estimated the cost of my surgery just before they wheeled me into the operating room and made me pay up front. So I charged it on my credit card. Thanking my lucky stars as all my hospital bills were reimbursed in full, because I listened to my mother and got travel MEDICAL insurance. Read the fine print too - just travel insurance probably won't cover medical expenses, and make sure you get comprehensive coverage if you are doing sporting activities.

A few other bits of advice: One: Learn how to drive stick shift. Automatic is a very American thing. Two: I fear motorcycles, but being familiar with motorbikes comes in handy in many cases, especially when visiting islands. Three: Bring earplugs for the plane and train - seems like I'm always sitting next to the screaming baby.