Gastroanthropology

Pumpkin Pie Spice Granola

The last few months have whizzed by and in a blink our tiny (well he was nearly nine pounds at birth so never really tiny) newborn is now 7 months old and crawling into every nook and cranny of the house! With my new two and half foot tall boss giving orders to be fed, changed, and entertained, the long hours I had once spent experimenting in the kitchen seems lifetimes away. So for the next few post I'll be revisiting some in my vault of tried and true recipes. This granola has always been a huge hit - super tasty and lots of big granola clusters! I've tweaked it a bit for Thanksgiving by adding spices traditional to pumpkin pie. And some crisp apple chips for a bit more crunch and fall flavor. You must absolutely try this recipe - it's easy, quick, delicious. This sweet spiced granola is the perfect treat to take on a fall hike or to bring a little bit of pumpkin pie to your morning yogurt.

PUMPKIN PIE SPICE GRANOLA

• 1/2 c maple syrup
• 1/2 c brown sugar
• 1/2 c butter
• 1/2 tsp salt
• 1 tsp vanilla extract
• 2 c oats
• 1/2 c + 2Tbs all purpose flour (can use whole wheat)
• 1 c pecans, roughly chopped
• 2 1/2 tsp pumpkin pie spice (a combination of mostly cinnamon and a touch of ginger, allspice, nutmeg and clove)
• 3/4 c dried apple chips

METHOD

Preheat oven to 350F.

Combine maple syrup, brown sugar, butter, salt and vanilla extract in a medium sauce pan and put on medium heat. Warm through till butter melts and brown sugar dissolves.

Meanwhile, in a glass bowl combine together oats, flour, chopped pecans and pumpkin pie spice. Toss together. Set aside.

Pour the warmed maple syrup mixture over the oat mixture and combine. Spread the mixture out onto a silpat lined baking sheet (can also use greased baking parchment). Put in preheated oven for 15 minutes. Take out and use two spoons to break apart and move the mixture around. Place back in the oven for an additional 5 minutes. Remove from oven.

Once the mixture has cooled enough to touch, but still warm, use your hands to break apart the mixture into desired sized granola clusters. Set aside to cool completely. Once cooled the granola clusters will have crisped up. Add broken up apple chip pieces. Store in airtight container for up to a week. Can eat plain or add some to strained (greek style) yogurt!

Apple Brown Butter Betty

When I want to make a quick and simple dessert an apple crisp always comes to mind. Peel and slice up a few apples, toss with lemon, cinnamon, brown sugar, a smidge of flour and a sprinkle of salt. For the top - a few oats, almond flour, a bit more flour, sugar, salt, and butter to keep it crumbly and crisp, and in the oven. Done. Maybe some ice cream on top and everyone is happy. What could be even easier with a similar result? Brown Betty. 

Brown Betty is the girl next door you never really think about, or talk to your friends about. You're not attracted to her at first sight, but you love it when you run into her and exchange hellos. Then one day, you hang out with her, spending some serious time and you can't believe you never noticed how amazing she really is. She doesn't require copious amounts of effort. She's perfect - never too much or over the top. You can bring her home to mom, but your friends think she's great too. Brown Betty is the dessert that is never really craved or swooned over, but when it's there you can't imagine life with her.

Brown Betty is way easier than pie and doesn't really require much of a recipe. To start, cube day-old brioche bread, or a mixture of country white bread and croissants into 1/2 inch cubes. You could also do this with fresh bread, just cut and cube a few hours before and set out to dry the bread a bit. Then, in a bowl, peel and slice tart apples. They should be sliced relatively thin - if they are too thick they won't soften enough by the time the bread on top browns. Toss apple slices with a squeeze of lemon, a generous amount of cinnamon, a bit of clove and nutmeg, brown sugar, vanilla extract, and a splash of brandy or calvados. Toss together and set aside. In a pot melt and brown butter. When the butter starts to brown and get nutty, pour most of the butter over the cubed bread and toss together. Reserve a bit of brown butter for sprinkling on top. In a buttered baking dish, layer the now brown buttered bread and/or croissant cubes with apples, starting and ending with the bread cubes. Sprinkle the remaining butter over top. You could sprinkle a bit of turbinado sugar on top as well, but it's not necessary. Bake in a 350F oven, for about 30 minutes. The apples should be soft, but not mushy, and the bread cubes on top should be a golden brown.

As a general guide I used a mixture of 6 cups of cubed white bread and croissants. I also used 6 apples, juice of 1 lemon, 1/4 cup brown sugar (add more if you like your desserts on the sweeter side), 1 Tablespoon of cinnamon, pinch each of nutmeg, clove and salt (use whatever spices you like with apples), 1/2 teaspoon vanilla, 2 Tablespoons of calvados (if you don't want to use alcohol fresh apple juice is fine, but it does need a bit of liquid), and 4 ounces of butter. This fit perfectly in an medium-depth 8x8 inch baking dish.

Serve warm, with or without fresh heavy cream or vanilla ice cream. The bottom layer of bread soaks up all the cinnamony apple juice that caramelizes a bit while the top is crisp and buttery. It's understated, but perfect on a cool fall day.

Apple Strudel

Since Europe takes a four day break for Easter, we decided to take one too. To Austria we went, for some end-of-season skiing and to explore Salzburg and Tirol. There was quite a bit of driving involved as well, where I once again realized the monster I had created. Nate has always been an adventurous person, and that translates into the foods he will eat. He'll try the stinkiest fish or the scary looking chicken's feet. As a self-professed foodie, having a partner who isn't squeamish about food is like having a golden ticket. But, since he's been eating with me he's learned terms like mouthfeel, balance and presentation as well. Fruits and vegetables must be fresh and crisp. Sauces and pastry fillings must be smooth and strained. Combinations of textures are noticed. He's the first point out that the chef used a bit too much gelatin in the panna cotta or that the chocolate mousse a little grainy meaning the chocolate wasn't properly melted or the eggs weren't strained. 

Because we were confronted with apple strudel every time we stopped anywhere in Austria - every restaurant, coffee shop, street vendor, and ski chalet had it - it was often the topic of conversation. In my previous post I mentioned we differed on whether or not raisins should be included in an apple strudel. Traditionally, it seems to be. And Nate likes them and thought they should be included. What does he know? The only time I ever tolerated raisins was when they were stuck to peanut butter slathered on celery. Not in my oatmeal or cereal. Not in my bread pudding. Not even in my oatmeal-raisin cookie. And, Not in my strudel.

We did agree that we don't like our strudel super-sweet. The tartness of the apple must be noticed. Even a tart apple has an immense amount of sweetness, especially when cooked, so not too much sugar is included in my recipe. I also went with these tart Bramley baking apples. 

We also agreed that a strudel must be apple-y, lots and lots of apples with just enough dough to keep it all together. 

Keeping all this in mind I decided to use Edouard Nignon/Pierre Herme's 20-hour apple method for part of the filling. I figure they know a thing or two about apples in desserts and Nignon was the chef to the Emperor of Austria way back when. In a nutshell, 20-hour apples are peeled, cored and sliced thin, pressed into a buttered pan, brushed with butter, sprinkled with sugar, wrapped in plastic, then in foil, weighted down and baked at a very low temperature for 10 hours. Then its left to cool in its own juices for another 10 hours. The result is an intense apple flavor that melts in your mouth. Start these the morning before you want to bake your strudel and let it cool overnight.

While this method provides an unbeatable apple flavor, I didn't want the final strudel to be just intense apple mush inside. So, to the 20-hour apples I added freshly diced apple. The freshly diced apples are tossed with toasted (in butter) breadcrumbs which help to absorb the liquid of the apple.

Here the fresh apple mix is piled on top of the gently laid 20-hour apples.

For the dough...strudel dough is like fresh pasta to me. It's not as hard as it seems, but worth the effort. Though with strudel dough it does help to have a lot of kitchen space - especially an island or a large dining room table. Of course, like pasta, the boxed kind is acceptable. You can buy strudel dough, but its often easier to find phyllo dough. For more on strudel dough and a good recipe check out the Daring Bakers who did strudel last May.

APPLE STRUDEL

• 1 full 20-hour apple** recipe using 4 pounds of tart baking apples
• 1 pound of tart baking apples, peeled, cored and medium diced
• 1/3 cup sugar (add more if you like things a bit sweeter)
• 1 cup toasted breadcrumbs
• pinch cinnamon
• Strudel dough

** General method for 20-hour apples within the post above, more detailed recipe to come soon. The original post provided a link to 20-hour apples but the link is no longer valid. Sorry, but I will get the detailed recipe posted shortly!

METHOD

The day before you want to bake your strudel make the 20-hour apples. On strudel day, start by making the strudel dough. Then make fresh apple filling by toasting 1 cup breadcrumbs in a shallow pan with about 1 Tbs melted butter. Use homemade or good quality breadcrumbs. Please don't use the breadcrumbs that come in those Pringles-type cans. I reserved a few tablespoons to sprinkle on my strudel dough as I rolled it up. Toss cooled breadcrumbs with the freshly diced apples, sugar, and cinnamon.

Gently lay the 20-hour apples along the entire length of one side of your strudel dough. Add the freshly diced apple mixture on top. Gently roll the strudel, sprinkling reserved breadcrumbs. Place on a sheet pan lined with foil and parchment. Brush with butter. Bake for about 1 hour or until golden brown at 375F. 

Let cool to slightly warm or room temperature. Dust with powdered sugar before serving. Serve with fresh cream or whipped cream if you'd like.  

It was just perfect. The combination of the 20-hour almost apple jam and the slight crunch of the fresh apple created the perfect filling. Now the apple strudel discussion has ended...on to the next debate...

Apple Upside-Down Cake

The best part of fall in England is the amazing variety of crisp and fresh apples. Apple pie, apple crumble, apple turnovers, apple cider, applesauce, apple butter, caramel apples, apple cake, and the list goes on. With maybe the exception of the caramel apples, I'm pretty sure I would add a little or a lot of cinnamon to each of these things. Cinnamon is hands down my absolute favorite spice - I sprinkle it on anything I can. As a self-professed cinnamon addict I decided my next apple experience would not include the stuff.

Enter, nutmeg.

My favorite cookbook of the moment - has been since June - didn't let me down. An upside-down apple cake cooked in an iron skillet and made with apple butter and topped with caramel-soaked apples. And no cinnamon.

The recipe even begins, "we decided not to resort to the overused combination of apples and cinnamon and opted instead for nutmeg and vanilla". This recipe, from the Big Sur Bakery, is multi-step, so read through before getting started. Here it goes...

APPLE UPSIDE-DOWN CAKE

For the Apple Butter:

• 1 vanilla bean
• 6 apples, peeled, cored and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
• juice of 1 lemon wedge
• 1/4 c apple juice
• 2 tsp freshly grated nutmeg
• 1/4 c sugar

Split vanilla bean and scrape out pulp. Add pulp and pod to medium saucepan. Add apples, lemon juice, apple juice (use fresh pressed if you can), nutmeg, and sugar. Cover and cook over medium heat for 7 to 10 min. Apples should be steamed and soft. Smash apples with a back of a wooden spoon to form a sauce. Reduce heat to low and continue to cook to let moisture evaporate, another 10 to 15 min. The apple butter is ready when it becomes thicker and smoother and has a rich tan color. Let the apple butter cool to room temperature. Remove the vanilla pod. You will probably have enough apple butter leftover for a second cake, and it will keep in the fridge for a few days. 

Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat to 350F.

For the Caramel Apples:

• 1/4 c unsalted butter, room temp
• 1 1/4 c sugar
• 5 apples, peeled, cored, and each cut into 8 wedges

To make the caramel apples, cream the butter and sugar in an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment for 1 to 2 min. Transfer the mixture to a 10-inch cast-iron skillet and cook over medium heat until it caramelizes to a deep golden brown, about 5 to 8 min. Carefully add the apple wedges, transfer the skillet to the oven, and bake for about 10 min, until the apples are tender but still retain their shape. Remove from the oven and let them cool completely in the skillet. Leave the oven on.

For the Cake:

• 1/2 c unsalted butter, room temp
• 1 c dark brown sugar, packed
• 1/2 tsp salt
• 2 tsp baking powder
• 1 tsp freshly grated nutmeg
• 1 egg, beaten
• 1 cup of apple butter
• 1 3/4 c all-purpose flour

While the apples are cooling down, prepare the cake batter. Cream the butter, brown sugar, salt, baking powder, and nutmeg in an electric mixer with the paddle attachment. Add the egg and 1 cup of apple butter, and mix to combine. Add flour, taking care not to overmix. Gently pour the cake batter directly over the caramel apples in the iron skillet, and bake 35 to 45 min. Cake is ready when skewer inserted in the middle comes out clean. Remove from oven and let cool slightly.

Using a pair of kitchen towels or mitts, invert the cake onto a plate that is slightly larger than the skillet. Do this assertively. Slowly lift off the skillet. If any apples stick to the skillet, remove them gently with a spatula and place back on cake. Let cake sit for 20 min before serving.

Hot damn! The girl can cook. Perfect served warm with a bit of unsweetened whipped cream.

 

Food for Thought + Apple Crisp

This week hasn't been the best for an American expat in London. I had a little spat with a British food writer who did an opinion piece on Thanksgiving dinner for Waitrose Food Illustrated. She said the holiday had a huge downside (upsides included no presents, no cards, and no religious ceremonies) and that the feast was "downright bizarre". She also knocked Americans for not knowing how to roast potatoes...this all from a Brit...because the British are so much more gastronomically inclined than Americans.

In her defense she did write me to say that her piece was meant to be humorous. As I was reading it I thought maybe that was her intention and kept waiting for the funny bit, the sarcastic jab, but it never emerged. I also thought that any reader who has never experienced a "proper" Thanksgiving dinner would be left with an idea of Thanksgiving that is so far from the truth.

This got me thinking about food writing...what about food critics and restaurant reviewers? More harm than good?

Having worked in a high profile restaurant I've experienced first hand that all critics are not created equal and not all critiques are purely objective.  You can also be sure if the restaurant staff knows there's a critic in the house the critic isn't being treated like the average diner.

Restaurant reviews only give me the ability to imagine the critic's experience. I can't feel the ambiance or taste the food. I don't know if the critic has had a bad day or that I'm interpreting his description the way he meant. I recently read a negative review where the critic described the bread pudding as soggy. Um, isn't bread pudding soaked in liquid, and therefore at its essence, soggy? There are also times when something sounds so deliciously descriptive, like on a menu, and then my tastebuds are totally disappointed.And then, there are those restaurants that have gotten great reviews where its like the Emperor's New Clothes and some are afraid to say how they truly feel.

So what to do? Never treat one review as the gold standard. Ask your friends, check out some blogs and other food sites, like Yelp, where users generate reviews. I've been to many of the best restaurants in food capitals all around the world and I have to say the best meals (food+service+ambiance) are rarely the ones with multiple Michelin stars.

And now I leave you with a simple Apple Crisp. You be the critic.

APPLE CRISP

• 3 oz unsalted butter (melted)
• 3/4 c + 1 Tbs all purpose flour
• 1/4 c rolled oats
• 1/4 c almond flour
• 1 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
• 1/2 tsp ground ginger
• 1/4 tsp ground clove
• 1/4 tsp salt
• 1/2 c + 2 Tbs packed dark brown sugar
• 1/4 currants or cranberries (optional)
• 4-5 medium firm, tart apples (like granny smith)
• 1/2 juice of 1 lemon

METHOD

Melt butter over low heat. Meanwhile, slice apples (I don't peel mine but peel them if you prefer it) and toss with lemon juice, 1 Tbs flour, and 2 Tbs brown sugar in a small baking dish. Sprinkle currants or cranberries over the apples. Combine all other ingredients, pour melted butter over top, and stir with a large spoon or fork. It should come together in a crumbly mixture. Sprinkle over top of the apples. Bake 45 minutes to 1 hour in 350 Fahrenheit/ 180 Celsius oven. Serve warm, and maybe with a little vanilla ice cream. This recipe only serves up to four people and the perfect ending to a dinner for two. Double it if you need more.