Danish Smørrebrød

When you are a trained chef people always ask, where do you go to eat? A chef working in fine dining often craves traditional, simple, good food. If you work in restaurants, chances are your only day off is Monday. So where do you go for lunch on a Monday in Copenhagen when its icy, cold and covered in snow?

Told & Snaps for Smørrebrød. 

It's best to arrive via bicycle (chosen method of travel by Danes in Copenhagen, even in the deep of winter!). 

I went with a chef friend for an early lunch. We sat at a table for two. As the afternoon progressed chefs from the best in Copenhagen trickled in (just getting out of bed of course, as chefs are notorious for sleeping breakfast away). Soon we moved to a table for four, then six, then eight. Lucky for me - most of the chefs hail from Scandinavian countries and knew just what to order.

Smørrebrød are open-faced sandwiches served on buttered rugbrød (Danish for rye bread). I was in absolute rugbrød heaven as I stumbled bakery-upon-bakery serving all sorts of this tangy, seeded, dense bread.

At Told & Snaps there are over 30 different smørrebørd and 2 to 3 are recommended per person for lunch. Classics include lun stegt sild i lage - fried and marinated herring.

This smoked eel with scrambled egg (røget Ål med røræg) is one of the most popular dishes and a delicious combination.

Can't leave Scandinavia without a little fishcake...fiskefrikadeller med hjemmerørt remoulade.

Fish is followed by a Danish classic of meatballs served with red cabbage - lune frikadeller med rødkål og surt.

Nørrebro Bryghus is a local Danish beer and produced carbon neutrally.

Another classic smørrebrød is beef served with shaved horseradish and pickled vegetables...Oksebryst, kogt i porter med pickles og peberrod.

You can't leave Denmark with having a bit of pork. Why not start with warm pork rib roast and red cabbage? Ribensteg fra fritgående grise.

It's tradition to wash all this rich food, like warm liver pate with bacon - lun leverpostej med bacon og agurkesalat...

with a bit of housemade snaps (Danish for a small shot of strong alcohol, like the German schnaps)...

Potent and a touch sweet we choose elderflower akvavit to cut the richness of the smørrebrød. We also had some housemade walnut akvavit which was equally lovely.

Told og Snaps, Toldbodgade 2, 1253 København. 

Comments

[Lori]

What a lunch! I'd be in heaven with all that delicious bread and would love to give that eel a try. I'm not picky though, I'd try all if it. :)

Boy, they are tough souls. I just can't imagine biking in that cold no matter how much I believe in physical activity!

[Daily Spud]

Ah, rye bread, herring, leverpostej and schnaps all bring back great memories of the summer I spent in Copenhagen during my college years. Plus you have now got me craving some dark, chewy rye bread - will have to see if I can get some and soon.

[Tangled Noodle]

All of it, please! I was ogling the smoked eel and scrambled eggs but it just got better and better as I scrolled down, dish after dish. Did you get a taste of them all? I don't know how one could choose - guess it means that you have to keep going back!

[gastroanthropologist]

Tangled Noodle - I did give it all a taste it. So often I wish I had multiple stomachs. The pork rib roast was probably my favorite. They had so many options though that I did not get to try, so yes, must go back!

[5 Star Foodie]

Those sandwiches all sound wonderful! I would love to visit Copenhagen some day soon!

[OysterCulture]

What fun - your first pictures were so atmospheric I loved the color of the homes and the ice - you're speaking to my Minnesota soul.

The idea of grazing eating like this is a personal favorite. All the options you described sounded fantastic. The warm pork roast with red cabbage sounds like that perfect homey food that takes the edge off a cold day.

[Crystal]

All the photos look stunning, but the best is the snowed in boat - fantastic.

[Sophie]

Thanks for this lovely review of fine breakfast & luch dishes!!

A lovely place to eat & dine!! Yum yum yum!

Tasty dishes, ...all so fresh & lovely!

[Kitchen Butterfly]

I love you danish food intro.....superb and it all looks lovely

[Andrea]

I can't believe you also married a Norwegian! Good on us ;-)

I've never been to Copenhagen, but I'm going to make R take me next time we visit Norway (well, there and Stockholm). We should do some kind of Scandinavian food event together. I'm getting more and more into it.

[Marcus]

I've got to go to Told & Snaps next time I'm in Copenhagen. Thanks for sharing! I've passed by the place, but never thought to go in!

[spiceandmore]

Hi there, stumbled upon your blog via another blog (where you posted a link to your picture of rugebrod that you made from the Meyer's Bageri book - came here hoping for your translated recipe). I got back from Copenhagen last night. Totally fell in love with the lovely rye bread there and very keen to try and find out how to make it. I know absolutely no Danish so didn't buy the book. if you have managed to translate any of the bread recipes I would be really interested.
I had meetings in an office opposite Told and Snaps, and they recommended I try their Smorrebrod. I ran out of time unfortunately so it was nice to see your pictures and read your review - thanks!