Gastroanthropology

Rustic Rye Crostata

For weeks I've been trying to recreate a huge favorite in our house - Scandinavian Rye Bread. I've been having a heck of a time with my San Francisco Sourdough Starter, and its making it difficult to achieve the exact bread I want. I think my starter has a bit of homesickness and is refusing to accept the London air and water (even though I'm filtering it!). Anyway, I've got heaps of rye flour that needs to be morphed into something edible, and not another inedible batch of Scandinavian Rye. It was the perfect excuse to try one of Kim Boyce's recipes from my new favorite cookbook, Good to the Grain. If your interested in creating things in the kitchen using wholegrain flours like rye, spelt, quinoa, barley, etc. this is the book for you.

I made one batch of Boyce's Rustic Rye Dough which made 12 individual crostatas or galettes, but will also make 2 larger 9-inch tarts. She suggested an Apricot+Boysenberry filling, but it isn't really apricot season yet so I used rhubarb and dressed it up with some fresh blackberries. I used Boyce's Rhubarb Hibiscus Compote for inspiration, using dark brown sugar, as she does, instead of white sugar, for a deeper flavor.

RHUBARB+BLACKBERRY COMPOTE

• 4 pounds rhubarb stalks
• 2 cups dark brown sugar
• 1 vanilla pod, split
• 2 pounds ripe blackberries

METHOD

Rinse and trim ends of rhubarb stalks. Cut into 1-inch pieces at a diagonal. Reserve 2 stalks and cut them smaller - into 1/2-inch pieces at a diagonal. Put all the 1-inch pieces in a large, heavy-bottom pot. Add brown sugar and vanilla pod. Stir together, cover, and turn onto low. After ten minutes raise the heat to medium-low for another ten minutes, removing the cover and stirring occasionally. Continue to cook for another ten minutes or so, stirring constantly. At this point all the rhubarb stalks should have melted into a think jammy compote. Add the reserved smaller pieces of rhubarb. Cook for about 5 minutes, so the recently added rhubarb is soft, but so the pieces have not completely broken down. This is especially important if using the compote for the Rustic Rye Crostata. Add the blackberries and cook for about one minute. Leave on the stove, but turn off the heat. Let cool completely and then remove the vanilla pod. Put in a sieve in the fridge overnight to strain the excess liquid. The excess liquid can be saved and used as a sauce on vanilla ice cream or added to sparkling water for a spring cordial!

The blackberries add a wonderful color and is a delicious twist to the usual rhubarb+strawberry combination. Once the compote is strained you can spoon it into rolled-out Rustic Rye Dough. I would absolutely recommend brushing the tarts with an egg wash and cinnamon-sugar as Boyce suggests. Also, this dough would work well in a savory type tart. It is only a smidge sweet and could hold up to something like a tomato+feta tart. 

 

Brown Butter Bars

View at dusk from my parents rooftop deck at their home in Carmel.

The little coastal town of Carmel has a love-hate relationship with the many tourists that frequent it. Sandwiched between Pebble Beach Golf Course and Big Sur, its certainly no secret. For the locals who live in Carmel there's a few places we'd love to rave about, but have to stop ourselves from being too excited for then more tourists might come. But then there are those places that you just have to share because you physically are unable to keep it secret. 

 

In California, we have Highway 1 - its a road that hugs the entire coast of California, and quite possibly one of the most amazing coastal drives in the world. It starts south of Los Angeles in Orange County where the locals call it PCH. That's Pacific Coast Highway for short. It weaves along the coast north, through Big Sur and Carmel. Here there is a mandatory stop that must be made - I'll tell you where in a second. Continuing on, Highway 1 goes through San Francisco and over the Golden Gate Bridge. 

 

Nate always said we would only ever leave San Francisco when driving over the Golden Gate Bridge didn't amaze him anymore. Tempted by the romance of Europe we left San Francisco, but not at all because the bridge crossing lost any luster. This is how I know we will be going back. Highway 1 continues north past Marin, Tomales Bay, and Sonoma County - places amazing all on their own. 

Back to the mandatory stop on Highway 1. Big Sur Bakery. Address: Big Sur Bakery, Highway One, California. They have the best jelly donuts, burgers, pizzas, cookies, wood-fired bread, pancakes... Everything is the world's best but these are extra special. Brown. Butter. Bars.

The original Brown Butter Bars are made with homemade fresh peach jam. Here is where I have to make a huge modification - in London, there is no way I'm going to get my produce greedy hands on fresh peaches, so I'm using the next best thing. The next best thing is jam made by my fellow classmate, Sky Cracknell, who is the co-founder (with her husband) of England Preserves. A post on Sky's jam is coming soon where I'll be giving away a few jars. This is hands down the best jam EVER. More on England Preserves in a few days because right now it's all about Brown Butter Bars. Read through the recipe before making - its simple, but there are a few steps which require chilling time.

BROWN BUTTER BARS,** adapted from Big Sur Bakery 

For the crust:

• 8 oz unsalted butter 
• 1/2 c powdered sugar, sifted 
• 1 1/2 c all-purpose flour 

For the filling:

• 3 large eggs 
• 1 c sugar 
• 3/4 c + 2 Tbs all-purpose flour
• 1/4 tsp salt 
• 1/2 vanilla pod, halved and seeds scraped  
• 5 oz unsalted butter 
• 1 c your favorite jam 

METHOD

For the crust: Melt the butter in a pan at medium-high heat till the butter starts to brown. When it turns a deep golden color and smells nutty strain through a fine sieve into a heat-proof container. Freeze till its solid - about one half-hour. Put the powdered sugar and flour in a large bowl. Cut bits of the cold brown butter into the sugar + flour. Using a pastry cutter or your hands mix together till you get a crumbly, sandy mixture. Press into a 9x13 inch baking dish. Chill for one half-hour. Preheat oven to 375F / 190C. Bake at that temperature for 18-20 minutes, or until golden in color. Set aside to cool.

For the filling: Whisk together eggs, sugar, salt and flour in a large bowl. Place the vanilla bean and seeds with the butter in a pan and heat till the butter starts to brown. When the butter turns a deep golden color and smells nutty, strain through a fine sieve. Careful! The butter will be really hot. Pour butter into the egg mixture, whisking as you do so.  Remove the vanilla bean.

Assemble the bars: Spread half the filling over the baked crust. Spoon large dollops of the jam over the filling, reserving a quarter. Then spread the rest of the filling over the jam. Use the remaining jam and small dollop over the top. The 1 cup of jam in the ingredients list is approximate, you may need more, depending on the consistency of the jam and how liberal you are with the dollops. Bake until the filling is golden brown in color, about 25 to 30 minutes, at 375F/ 190C. 

Let cool. Cut into squares and share if you can bear it. Perfect wrapped up in paper for a spring picnic. 

**The original recipe, found here, includes the zest of two oranges for the filling. It also includes the recipe and directions for the homemade peach jam. I omitted the orange zest because of the jam flavors I chose. I used two England Preserves flavors: Strawberry Days and Ruby's Redcurrant+Rhubarb+Vanilla. Take a look at Sky's Strawberry Days Jam. 

Come back next week for more on Sky's jams and a chance to win some!

If you happen to be lucky enough to drive past Big Sur Bakery, make sure to stop. It's hard to say what time of day is best. Early means you might get a jelly donut before they sell out. But lunchtime means wood-fired Greek pizza, or dinner might mean real clam chowder with an oak grilled Ribeye. Looks like you may have to hang out all day. I won't reveal the best Italian restaurant outside of Italy that happens to be in Carmel in this post, but if you are visiting the town, email me and I will share with you my secret.

Rhubarb + Almond Cream Crostata and the Almond Debate Continues

This past week I've been swimming in almond statistics. California now produces about 80 percent of all commercial almonds. Because California is such a huge producer, they often determine the world price. Almonds are California's largest export in dollars and the US's largest specialty crop export. As almonds aren't immediately perishable (properly stored almonds have about a 2-year shelf life) California can hold or flood the market with almonds to adjust pricing. Production efficiency is the highest in California, gaining every year, and actually quite stable. Spain is the world's second largest producer, but production efficiency is so low its almost not worth the effort anymore. Almond orchards are planted with different varieties for cross-pollination.

Currently, there is a huge ongoing debate about pasteurization of almonds. Almonds are harvested raw and until 2007 were sold as such. Mandatory pasteurization or sanitation (even for organic almonds) is now law and mandated by the USDA. Almonds can be pasteurized one of two ways: steam treatment or fumigation. Steaming is quite expensive so many are forced to "fumigate". A toxic gas, propylene oxide, is used. This was all in an effort to prevent the spread of salmonella. In the case of almonds there have only been two recorded cases of salmonella and neither was from an organic almond producer. Almond producers have been waging a court battle and their case was thrown out by a federal judge on technical grounds last month. To learn more about the raw almond debate and current legal battle, check out the Cornucopia Institute's website. Almonds not from California are not subject to this treatment, which of course has the potential to put California at a disadvantage. If you buy from a farmer direct it can be sold to you untreated.

Back to Rhubarb + Almond Cream Crostata. I really wanted to make a crostata with my almond cream and apricots came to mind. There is no way I'm going to get my hands on an apricot this time of year in London. Since rhubarb is in full swing and gorgeous in color I decided to give it a try. Crostatas are simple and rustic - my favorite kind of dessert.

First, I cut and poached 10 long rhubarb stalks in a shallow pan with a simple syrup of 1 cup sugar to 2 cups water. I added vanilla bean and a few cardamom pods. Rhubarb should be poached in simmering water and not too long as it will fall apart and turn to mush. For crostata about 10 minutes should do it. I made single-serving crostatas so I cut the rhubarb quite small, about 1/2 inch pieces. Drain rhubarb and reserve liquid. This should be enough rhubarb for 18 individual crostatas. 

Roll out cubes (1 1/2 inch on a side) of your favorite pie dough to 1/8 of an inch thick. Check Martha if you don't have one. There are also some great store bought doughs - just check the label and make sure it uses natural ingredients. Spread a layer of almond cream (recipe to follow) and then add rhubarb on top, taking care not to layer fruit on fruit. Fold the edges and crimp. Sprinkle with sugar.

Make sure your oven is preheated to 400 F/ 200 C. Then, reduce the heat to 375 F/ 190 C just as you put your crostatas in the oven. Give them enough room - they spread a bit. Six should fit comfortably on a standard sheet pan. Bake for about 40 minutes, or until the crust is a deep golden brown. While crostatas are in the oven, take your reserved rhubarb poaching liquid and simmer to reduce by at least one half. This is great to brush overtop the crostadas when they are done or to add to sparkling water with ice and lime (and maybe a splash of vodka) for a delicious rhubarb spritzer.   

ALMOND CREAM

• 80 g butter, melted
• 2 tsp vanilla extract 
• 125 g 10X, or powdered sugar 
• 150 g almond flour  
• 15 g cake flour 
• 330 - 350 g pastry cream (if you follow the pastry cream recipe below you should have about this amount. If you end up with more than 350 g of finished pastry cream do not use it all) 

METHOD

Melt butter. Add vanilla extract. Add powdered sugar, almond and cake flours. Mix together with a whisk. Mix in pastry cream. Cover directly with plastic and refrigerate for 4 hours but not exceeding 24 hours. This recipe is double what you need for the Rhubarb + Almond Cream Crostada. Either double your rhubarb and pie dough or this almond cream is great baked in between puff dough and apples. I also bake this in silicone molds with bits of fresh fruit - it can stick - so grease molds liberally! 

PASTRY CREAM - In three easy steps

• 290 g whole milk
• 30 g sugar 
• 1/2 vanilla bean scraped 

Heat the above to a simmer.

• 20 g cornstarch
• 30 g sugar 
• 1 yolk 
• 1 egg 

Mix together, just before milk is coming to a simmer. Temper heating milk and the above egg mixture. Continue to whisk over low heat until it gets thick. 

•  30 g butter

Remove thickened pastry cream from the heat and whisk in small chunks of butter. When combined put in a bowl and cover directly with plastic. Refrigerate for about 4 hours and it is ready to use for almond cream. 

The Seasons are Changing

While temperatures have screamed winter for weeks you wouldn't be able to tell its winter in my local grocery store. Even though I'm in England the shelves are overflowing with tomatoes, berries, plums, and even nectarines! Flown in from all parts of the world or created in hot houses, I try to refrain from making any of these out-of-season purchases. Out-of-season foods are unsustainably produced and often taste awful.The grocery store offerings can be quite tempting though...produce-wise my local farmers market was bare. A few root vegetables...carrots and parsnips...

Celeriac...

And, some end-of-the-season apples (of the egremont russet and cox varieties)...

This painting nearly had the exact same produce offered at the market this past weekend. I figured if they weren't selling stone fruits and berries at the food market in the 1500s - I too should wait till summer. 

1569, Flemish Painter - J. Beuckelaer. Original at the National Gallery in London.

I did, however, find these lovely brussels sprouts. Brussels sprouts were a great find as they bridge the gap between autumn and spring offerings. 

These were perfect with some lovely local bacon (streaky bacon here in the UK) alongside a small roast chicken.

BRUSSELS SPROUTS WITH BACON

• 1 # brussels sprouts, cleaned and trimmed, cut in half
• 6 slices bacon, cut small 
• 1 large red onion, sliced thin 
• 1 Tbs balsamic vinegar 
• 1 Tbs maple syrup 
• salt and pepper to taste  

METHOD

Blanch cleaned and cut brussels sprouts for 3 minutes in boiling, salted water. My sprouts were small so I just cut in half - if yours are larger, cut into quarters. Drain. Set aside.

Add bacon to a large skillet pan on high heat. Remove bacon when cooked and immediately add sliced red onion to the same pan. Reduce heat if necessary. If there isn't enough fat rendered from the bacon add a bit of olive oil or butter. Once the onion is cooked through - add the balsamic. Cook for an additional minute. Remove onions and add them to the bacon that is set aside.

Add a bit of butter and olive oil to the same pan. Put in the sprouts and brown - about 4-5 mintues. Add bacon and onion. Once everything is heated through turn off heat. Add maple syrup and stir through. Taste. Add salt and pepper to taste.

A little poached English rhubarb to finish the meal. This was topped with some mascarpone cream - not local...but imported from Italy! OK, I live my life as sustainable-ishly as possible.

 

POACHED RHUBARB

• 7-8 stalks of rhubarb, trimmed and cut into 2-inch pieces
• 1 c water 
• 1 c sweet dessert wine, like moscato or sauternes 
• 1/2 c sugar 
• 1/2 vanilla bean - split 
• 4-5 cardamom pods 
• peel of 1 orange 
• pinch of salt 
• 1 Tbs raspberry jam (or any other berry jam)  

METHOD

Trim and cut rhubarb. Add all ingredients into a shallow pan and let simmer for about 20 minutes. Do not bring to a boil, as rhubarb will fall apart. Serve warm with mascarpone cream.

MASCARPONE CREAM

• 1/2 c mascarpone, room temp
• 1/4 c cream 
• scant 1/4 c sugar 
• 1/4 vanilla bean, scraped 
• 1/4 tsp vanilla extract  

 METHOD

Leave mascarpone out for about 1 hour. Add all other ingredients and whisk together till smooth. Serve with poached rhubarb or any other poached or fresh fruit.