Gastroanthropology

Cherry Clafoutis

I had the wonderful fortune of having one of those bad-ass grandmothers. Grandma lived with my immediate family for most of my childhood. Every morning she cooked us a hot breakfast and then sat with us while we ate. Grandma (with the help of Grandpa) cultivated a vegetable garden that would put most small farms to shame. She was sweet as sugar, but at the same time tough and fearless - I once witnessed her kill a rattlesnake with a shovel. What? Yes. She wanted to make sure the snake never came back into the yard for fear that it might bite us so she beat the thing to death. 

Grandma grew up on an island in South Korea, bore nine children, and was the wife of the captain of a fishing boat. She was often left alone for weeks or months at a time to raise her children (one of which was my mother) in a two room home. After my mom (the youngest girl of the lot) married my American father, my grandparents came to the States. 

While life was a bit more comfortable in the States I think my grandmother remembered the times when she went without. Fruit was a huge luxury during my Grandmother's time in Korea. We often went cherry picking when cherry season came around, and my Grandmother, bless her heart, would wear pants with the deepest pockets and slip cherries in them till they were bulging.

Grandma passed over five years ago, but she is missed and remembered by my entire family. Lots of things during my day to day life remind me of her, but when cherries come into season I always think of her and cherry picking.

We never cooked with cherries growing up - just ate them fresh. But now that it's just two at home when I have the wonderful fortune of too many cherries I have to think of different ways to use them. Thanks to some advice from my twittering foodie friends I decided to go with a cherry clafoutis. I contacted my former boss and pastry chef extraordinaire, Belinda Leong, for a tasty clafoutis recipe. She's just back in San Francisco after two years of working with the best pastry chefs in the best restaurants all over Europe. She's got something in the works you lucky San Franciscans. 

I baked mine in a cast iron skillet for no other reason than it was the perfect size, but it worked like a charm. I'd like to say I left the pits in the cherries because it is French tradition to do so, but in reality I've been cooking for the past two years without any kitchen gadgets (referring to the cherry pitter here), so couldn't be bothered with pitting. Worked great and prevented any bleeding of the cherries. Just warn your guests before they dive in and break a tooth. 

This recipe makes one clafoutis in a deep 6-inch cast iron skillet. It's the perfect amount for four, or in our case a greedy couple. You could divide the batter amongst buttered and sugared ramekins.

 

CHERRY CLAFOUTIS

• 2 large eggs
• 80 grams sugar
• 32 grams all-purpose flour
• 40 grams almond flour
• 100 grams whole milk
• 100 grams heavy cream
• 20 whole cherries (approx.), cleaned with stems off

METHOD

Preheat oven to 350F. Heavily butter a cast iron skillet. Combine the milk + cream together in a container. Combine the flour + almond flour in a bowl. Gently whisk them together to combine and break up any clumps of flour. Whisk together eggs + sugar in a medium bowl. Once eggs + sugar are combined, whisk them into the bowl of combined flours. Slowly stream the liquid into the bowl while whisking. Pour into the buttered cast iron skillet. Evenly distribute the whole cherries. Carefully place in the oven. Bake for about 18-20 minutes until the clafoutis is set and golden brown on top. Eat immediately. Absolutely not necessary but feel free to serve with a splash of fresh cream.

Muesli + Greek Yogurt

One of our staple cereals is Raisin Bran. Not because I like it, but because Nate likes it. When its on sale at Safeway, I've been known to buy an entire case. I hate having more than one box of cereal open because it goes stale, so when a box of Raisin Bran is open, that's the cereal I have to eat too. But I despise raisins. I can't think of one thing that I find is enhanced by adding raisins. So, before I pour the milk over my Raisin Bran I take the time to pick out every single raisin. Meanwhile, I'm cursing those two scoops - if they skimped on the raisins I would have less work to do. 

The particular brand that has two scoops of Raisin Bran is not easily found here in Europe. And when we first moved to Europe, Switzerland was home, where we discovered how much we loved muesli. I think of muesli as an uncooked, healthier version of granola. But, like my usual quips about cereals and trail mixes, no brand has just what I want. Its always too much of this and not enough of that. Solution? Make my own.

My muesli has a little bit of oats, spelt, and bran flakes, lots of almonds, pecans, and hazelnuts, pumpkin and sunflower seeds, and dried cherries, cranberries, and pineapple. 

Rather than drown all these delicious bits with milk, I add greek (strained) yogurt on top, with a drizzle of honey, and freshly grated apple. It's my new favorite thing to eat.

Tuscany Part 2: Foods of Siena

San Gimignano, Siena, Tuscany

Our last stop in the province of Siena was a San Gimignano - a gorgeous, walled medieval town from the 900s, and famous for its towers. 15 of the original 72 towers remain. We arrived after lunch and before dinner so had to make do with a bowl of sausages and tuscan beans, which was tasty, but a few other edibles caught my eye. Like this curing cinghiale, otherwise known as wild boar.

 

This selection of cinghiale prosciutto was almost as impressive as the curing meats in a butcher's shop from the town of Siena. Sorry for the blur - I had to take this incognito.

 

As amazing as all these lovely cured meats are, there lies a special place in my heart for all things sweet. And while I am a moth to a flame for sunshine and warm weather, I love fall because it means Halloween, Thanksgiving Dinner, Christmas cookies, and harvest time for nuts! Celebrating the cooler weather spirit is a famous Christmas cookie from the region of Siena - ricciarelli. 

 

This traditional Christmas cookie (can be enjoyed at anytime of the year, of course) is made up of almond paste, egg whites, sugar, and often orange zest. The dough is made and formed into balls or the more traditional diamond shape. These are left out for a couple days to form a crackly skin, sprinkled with 10x, and then baked. Ricciarelli are very similar to the more well-known amaretti. 

Another sweet treat we discovered in Siena was panforte. It's basically a fruit cake loaded with nuts, candied fruits, and spices. There also exists a chocolate version!

 

A proper panforte is said to have 17 different ingredients, representing each of the 17 contrada that make up Siena. If you want to know a bit more about Siena's contradas check out my previous post.

Its as if the gods knew our trip to Tuscany had come to an end in San Gimignano, as the clouds rolled in and it began to sprinkle.

 

Good thing we managed to have the last of the summer tomatoes the day before...

 

Summer is officially over in my book. A real chill has come to London and this time I think its here to stay. I've even had to pull out my heating blanket for the bed this week. Plum jams on deck, just got my first batch of pears, and already writing my grocery list for Thanksgiving. Fall is definitely here.

Rhubarb + Almond Cream Crostata and the Almond Debate Continues

This past week I've been swimming in almond statistics. California now produces about 80 percent of all commercial almonds. Because California is such a huge producer, they often determine the world price. Almonds are California's largest export in dollars and the US's largest specialty crop export. As almonds aren't immediately perishable (properly stored almonds have about a 2-year shelf life) California can hold or flood the market with almonds to adjust pricing. Production efficiency is the highest in California, gaining every year, and actually quite stable. Spain is the world's second largest producer, but production efficiency is so low its almost not worth the effort anymore. Almond orchards are planted with different varieties for cross-pollination.

Currently, there is a huge ongoing debate about pasteurization of almonds. Almonds are harvested raw and until 2007 were sold as such. Mandatory pasteurization or sanitation (even for organic almonds) is now law and mandated by the USDA. Almonds can be pasteurized one of two ways: steam treatment or fumigation. Steaming is quite expensive so many are forced to "fumigate". A toxic gas, propylene oxide, is used. This was all in an effort to prevent the spread of salmonella. In the case of almonds there have only been two recorded cases of salmonella and neither was from an organic almond producer. Almond producers have been waging a court battle and their case was thrown out by a federal judge on technical grounds last month. To learn more about the raw almond debate and current legal battle, check out the Cornucopia Institute's website. Almonds not from California are not subject to this treatment, which of course has the potential to put California at a disadvantage. If you buy from a farmer direct it can be sold to you untreated.

Back to Rhubarb + Almond Cream Crostata. I really wanted to make a crostata with my almond cream and apricots came to mind. There is no way I'm going to get my hands on an apricot this time of year in London. Since rhubarb is in full swing and gorgeous in color I decided to give it a try. Crostatas are simple and rustic - my favorite kind of dessert.

First, I cut and poached 10 long rhubarb stalks in a shallow pan with a simple syrup of 1 cup sugar to 2 cups water. I added vanilla bean and a few cardamom pods. Rhubarb should be poached in simmering water and not too long as it will fall apart and turn to mush. For crostata about 10 minutes should do it. I made single-serving crostatas so I cut the rhubarb quite small, about 1/2 inch pieces. Drain rhubarb and reserve liquid. This should be enough rhubarb for 18 individual crostatas. 

Roll out cubes (1 1/2 inch on a side) of your favorite pie dough to 1/8 of an inch thick. Check Martha if you don't have one. There are also some great store bought doughs - just check the label and make sure it uses natural ingredients. Spread a layer of almond cream (recipe to follow) and then add rhubarb on top, taking care not to layer fruit on fruit. Fold the edges and crimp. Sprinkle with sugar.

Make sure your oven is preheated to 400 F/ 200 C. Then, reduce the heat to 375 F/ 190 C just as you put your crostatas in the oven. Give them enough room - they spread a bit. Six should fit comfortably on a standard sheet pan. Bake for about 40 minutes, or until the crust is a deep golden brown. While crostatas are in the oven, take your reserved rhubarb poaching liquid and simmer to reduce by at least one half. This is great to brush overtop the crostadas when they are done or to add to sparkling water with ice and lime (and maybe a splash of vodka) for a delicious rhubarb spritzer.   

ALMOND CREAM

• 80 g butter, melted
• 2 tsp vanilla extract 
• 125 g 10X, or powdered sugar 
• 150 g almond flour  
• 15 g cake flour 
• 330 - 350 g pastry cream (if you follow the pastry cream recipe below you should have about this amount. If you end up with more than 350 g of finished pastry cream do not use it all) 

METHOD

Melt butter. Add vanilla extract. Add powdered sugar, almond and cake flours. Mix together with a whisk. Mix in pastry cream. Cover directly with plastic and refrigerate for 4 hours but not exceeding 24 hours. This recipe is double what you need for the Rhubarb + Almond Cream Crostada. Either double your rhubarb and pie dough or this almond cream is great baked in between puff dough and apples. I also bake this in silicone molds with bits of fresh fruit - it can stick - so grease molds liberally! 

PASTRY CREAM - In three easy steps

• 290 g whole milk
• 30 g sugar 
• 1/2 vanilla bean scraped 

Heat the above to a simmer.

• 20 g cornstarch
• 30 g sugar 
• 1 yolk 
• 1 egg 

Mix together, just before milk is coming to a simmer. Temper heating milk and the above egg mixture. Continue to whisk over low heat until it gets thick. 

•  30 g butter

Remove thickened pastry cream from the heat and whisk in small chunks of butter. When combined put in a bowl and cover directly with plastic. Refrigerate for about 4 hours and it is ready to use for almond cream. 

Turkish Dreams, Turkish Dips

In the heat of the summer I secretly wish for cold winter days, sweaters and hot apple cider by the fireplace. It seems so much more romantic than the reality of multiple layers, thick boots, slushy snow, and frost bitten noses. In the freeze of the winter I vocally wish for the hot summer days, bikinis and frozen tropical drinks by the beach. Last year when I first moved to Europe and it began to thaw I took a trip to Istanbul, Turkey to speed summer's arrival. I'll have to do something similar this year.

Turkey is a little ahead of the European curve in its approach to summer and I was able to walk around in a summery dress and gold sandals in April, soaking up the sun, and exploring a new city. Well new to me, absolutely not new to the world. One perfect day started with a walk across the Bosphorous...

Losing ourselves in a spice market...

Following a road lined with sweet treats and fresh squeezed fruit juices to Topkapi Palace...

High ceilings, tiled walls, and huge windows. A perfect place for a little break from the hot Mediterranean sun.

With the powers of food I'm back in Turkey with these two dips - White Cheese + Almond Dip and Warmed Hummus.

WHITE CHEESE + ALMOND DIP

• 150 g white cheese (feta), about 1 c loosely crumbled
• 1 c strained greek yogurt (Fage brand easily found in the US and Europe comes pre-strained and is absolutely delicious) 
• 2 Tbs extra virgin olive oil 
• 1/4 c chicken stock, room temp (vegetarian stock or water OK)
• 1 c shredded cucumber (about 1/2 large english cucumber)  
• 1 tsp salt (for cucumber)
• 1/2 c almonds, toasted and coarsely chopped 
• 1 small handful flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped or torn 
• 1/2 tsp ground black pepper

METHOD

Grate cucumber and place in a strainer. Sprinkle 1 tsp salt over top and mix by hand. Set aside for about 10 minutes. Squeeze cucumber to remove excess liquid.

Mix together yogurt and crumbled white cheese (white cheese is to Turkey, as feta is to Greece). Add olive oil (I used a delicious cold-press olive oil) and chicken stock. Stir in the squeezed cucumber. At this point check the consistency of the dip, adding more chicken stock if its too thick for you. Add chopped almonds, parsley, and pepper. Taste - as white cheese or feta is brined you probably don't need extra salt in this dip, but add some if needed. Sprinkle a few almonds on top as garnish.  

Serve with toasted breads, pita, and/or crudite. If not eaten right away liquid may separate from the dip, just stir together again before serving. 

WARMED HUMMUS

At one dinner in Turkey we ordered hummus. It had been warmed in the oven and it was the first time I had warm hummus - delicious. This is my hummus recipe and can be served cool or at room temperature, but I recommend putting it in an oven-safe dish and warming it before serving. I used dried chickpeas that I soaked (for nearly 48 hours!) and then boiled for about 30 minutes. I've been trying to use less canned beans, but chickpeas seem to take a really long time so I may go back to the canned. 

• 250 g dried chickpeas, soaked and cooked OR, 2 cans chickpeas/ garbanzos, drained
• 5 large cloves of roasted garlic (see tip below) OR, 1 raw clove
• 2 Tbs tahini 
• 1/4 c chicken stock, room temp (vegetable stock or water OK)  
• 1/3 c extra virgin olive oil 
• 1 Tbs curry powder 
• 1/8 tsp cayenne pepper 
• 1/2 tsp ground black pepper 
• 1 small handful flat leaf parsley 
• juice of 1 lime, use 2 if your limes are dry  
• salt to taste  

 

METHOD

Use a blender or food processor. Start by processing chickpeas, garlic, tahini and chicken stock. Add olive oil. Combine. Add more liquid (if your not using canned chickpeas you will probably need more liquid). Blend to the consistency of your liking - I like my hummus chunky with bits of chickpea, but it is also nice to have it very smooth and creamy. Add curry powder, cayenne, black pepper, parsley, and lime juice. Mix till combined. Add salt to taste - you may not need it. Put in oven safe dish and warm for 7 minutes in a 350F/ 180C oven. Sprinkle a little more cayenne and olive oil just out of the oven and serve with toasted breads, pita, and/or crudite.

   
Tips - Roasted Garlic - Slice the very top off a whole head of garlic. Sprinkle liberally with olive oil. Wrap in foil and place in a hot oven 375F/ 190C for 25-30 minutes. Remove from oven. When cooled, squeeze the bottom of the garlic head - the cloves should pop out. These are quite mild once roasted so you can use liberally. I often spread this plain on toasted bread with a little olive oil and salt.