Rhubarb + Almond Cream Crostata and the Almond Debate Continues

This past week I've been swimming in almond statistics. California now produces about 80 percent of all commercial almonds. Because California is such a huge producer, they often determine the world price. Almonds are California's largest export in dollars and the US's largest specialty crop export. As almonds aren't immediately perishable (properly stored almonds have about a 2-year shelf life) California can hold or flood the market with almonds to adjust pricing. Production efficiency is the highest in California, gaining every year, and actually quite stable. Spain is the world's second largest producer, but production efficiency is so low its almost not worth the effort anymore. Almond orchards are planted with different varieties for cross-pollination.

Currently, there is a huge ongoing debate about pasteurization of almonds. Almonds are harvested raw and until 2007 were sold as such. Mandatory pasteurization or sanitation (even for organic almonds) is now law and mandated by the USDA. Almonds can be pasteurized one of two ways: steam treatment or fumigation. Steaming is quite expensive so many are forced to "fumigate". A toxic gas, propylene oxide, is used. This was all in an effort to prevent the spread of salmonella. In the case of almonds there have only been two recorded cases of salmonella and neither was from an organic almond producer. Almond producers have been waging a court battle and their case was thrown out by a federal judge on technical grounds last month. To learn more about the raw almond debate and current legal battle, check out the Cornucopia Institute's website. Almonds not from California are not subject to this treatment, which of course has the potential to put California at a disadvantage. If you buy from a farmer direct it can be sold to you untreated.

Back to Rhubarb + Almond Cream Crostata. I really wanted to make a crostata with my almond cream and apricots came to mind. There is no way I'm going to get my hands on an apricot this time of year in London. Since rhubarb is in full swing and gorgeous in color I decided to give it a try. Crostatas are simple and rustic - my favorite kind of dessert.

First, I cut and poached 10 long rhubarb stalks in a shallow pan with a simple syrup of 1 cup sugar to 2 cups water. I added vanilla bean and a few cardamom pods. Rhubarb should be poached in simmering water and not too long as it will fall apart and turn to mush. For crostata about 10 minutes should do it. I made single-serving crostatas so I cut the rhubarb quite small, about 1/2 inch pieces. Drain rhubarb and reserve liquid. This should be enough rhubarb for 18 individual crostatas. 

Roll out cubes (1 1/2 inch on a side) of your favorite pie dough to 1/8 of an inch thick. Check Martha if you don't have one. There are also some great store bought doughs - just check the label and make sure it uses natural ingredients. Spread a layer of almond cream (recipe to follow) and then add rhubarb on top, taking care not to layer fruit on fruit. Fold the edges and crimp. Sprinkle with sugar.

Make sure your oven is preheated to 400 F/ 200 C. Then, reduce the heat to 375 F/ 190 C just as you put your crostatas in the oven. Give them enough room - they spread a bit. Six should fit comfortably on a standard sheet pan. Bake for about 40 minutes, or until the crust is a deep golden brown. While crostatas are in the oven, take your reserved rhubarb poaching liquid and simmer to reduce by at least one half. This is great to brush overtop the crostadas when they are done or to add to sparkling water with ice and lime (and maybe a splash of vodka) for a delicious rhubarb spritzer.   

ALMOND CREAM

• 80 g butter, melted
• 2 tsp vanilla extract 
• 125 g 10X, or powdered sugar 
• 150 g almond flour  
• 15 g cake flour 
• 330 - 350 g pastry cream (if you follow the pastry cream recipe below you should have about this amount. If you end up with more than 350 g of finished pastry cream do not use it all) 

METHOD

Melt butter. Add vanilla extract. Add powdered sugar, almond and cake flours. Mix together with a whisk. Mix in pastry cream. Cover directly with plastic and refrigerate for 4 hours but not exceeding 24 hours. This recipe is double what you need for the Rhubarb + Almond Cream Crostada. Either double your rhubarb and pie dough or this almond cream is great baked in between puff dough and apples. I also bake this in silicone molds with bits of fresh fruit - it can stick - so grease molds liberally! 

PASTRY CREAM - In three easy steps

• 290 g whole milk
• 30 g sugar 
• 1/2 vanilla bean scraped 

Heat the above to a simmer.

• 20 g cornstarch
• 30 g sugar 
• 1 yolk 
• 1 egg 

Mix together, just before milk is coming to a simmer. Temper heating milk and the above egg mixture. Continue to whisk over low heat until it gets thick. 

•  30 g butter

Remove thickened pastry cream from the heat and whisk in small chunks of butter. When combined put in a bowl and cover directly with plastic. Refrigerate for about 4 hours and it is ready to use for almond cream. 

Comments

[Natasha - 5 Star Foodie]

I love this recipe because it combines two of my favorites - rhubarb and almonds! What a great idea! I'll be making this for my family very soon!

[The Duo Dishes]

Thanks for sharing this recipe. The almond cream sounds delicious. It would be great on croissants as well.

[elra]

last weekend was my first ever tried rhubarb at a friend house. They made rhubarb and strawberry tarte, It was a bit sour to my taste...
yours look pretty tempting.

[gastroanthropologist]

5 Star Foodie - Two of my favorites as well!

Duo Dishes - I like the way your thinking! Maybe a bit of chocolate with the almond cream croissant? Its getting a bit out of control!

Elra - Rhubarb is super tart. It is often used raw in tarts with the oven doing all the cooking. Try poaching it a bit first in simple syrup - should bring the tartness down a notch.

[OysterCulture]

You had me at rhubarb, and then you really sucked me in with the almonds. I confess, to loving rhubarb in all its forms, and this one I have not tried to make yet, but it is now on the list - I have first dibs on a load of rhubarb coming from Davis and now I know just what to do with it.

[alexandra's kitchen]

Very interesting! I didn't know all of this about almonds and/or California and I live in CA, so it's great to learn these things.

Crostadas are one of my favorite desserts ever. I have a recipe for a peach-frangipane galette, and I have never thought to use rhubarb. must try soon! These look fabulous.

[Tangled Noodle]

Wonderful! I've never made something like this before and it looks absolutely delicious. I especially like the sound of the almond cream. As much as I love sweet fruit, the tartness of rhubarb must give the overall flavor a great spark!

Thank you, as well, for the information regarding CA almond production. I'm curious: given the relative rarity of salmonella occurrences linked to raw almonds, why the mandate? Was it specifically targeting almonds or a wide range of produce? I can appreciate efforts to protect the food supply from food-borne illnesses but this law seems to be a bit of an overreaction if salmonella is the sole reason.

[Leela@shesimmers]

Oh my. These tarts have all the flavors I love. They look like perfect picnic food, too.

[gastroanthropologist]

Oyster - A few years back California had a problem with almond trucks being hijacked because they are so valuable - millions of dollars worth sometimes. I may have to put in an order for a rhubarb hijack for a certain load coming from Davis...

Alexandra's Kitchen - And this would taste great with peaches...

Tangled Noodle - You've hit the nail on the head. The USDA uses the salmonella as the reason but it may be part of this effort to sort of "sanitize" all foods. Irradiating fresh produce is becoming more popular to prevent any food borne illnesses or as a form of legal protection. The EU (California exports 50+% of their crop to Western Europe) has just lowered their aflatoxin amounts (a mold) on tree-nut imports so I thought their may be a connection there - haven't found anything published about that though.

Leela - Oh, perfect for a picnic!

[Sophie]

MMMMMM...Adrienne!
I love rhubarb & pastry cream!
In this dessert everything is beautifully combined, it is everything that I love in one dessert!! Fabulous!!! Rich & delicious!! I love it, can you tell,...

[Sophia]

Oh, yeah...I've heard the outrage over the pasteurized almonds before...apparently ppl are signing petitions against the government for that! most of them are raw foodists...I'm not sure where my opinion stands yet, though.
that crostada, on the other hand, I KNOW for sure is freaking YUMMY-LOOKING!

[Sam]

I really like the rustic look of crostadas, these sound amazingly good!

[justine]

This sounds delicious! I'm jealous!

[Sapuche]

I had no idea that almonds were California’s largest export in dollars! I never would have guessed it, either. Nor was I aware of the pasteurization debate. I’ve got a bunch of almonds in a cabinet and don’t like the idea of eating them if they’ve been fumigated with toxic gas. I’m glad I read your post! In any case, your almond cream crostada looks and sounds delicious. I made rhubarb pie last week that was a big hit, and I’d love to try something different with rhubarb. Thanks for this recipe!